
Book ^llS 

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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



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New Rhubarb Culture 

A Complete Guide to DARK 

FORCING and FIELD 

CULTURE 

HOW TO PREPARE 
and USE RHUBARB 



Fully Illustrated 

With original photographs taken expressly for this -work 



By J. E. MORSE 

Author of Garden Specials, Wheat Specials, etc. Winner of 
Gratid Prize in the National Garden Contest 



PART II 
Additional Chapters on Other Methods 
o Dy G. BURNAP FISKe'' '■ ' 



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J • T ,^ e ^ o , 



NEW YORK 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY 

I 90 I 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two Copies Receives 

APR. 13 1901 

Copyright entry 



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CLASS ^^XXc. N*». 
COPY S. 



COPYRIGHTED 1901 
l$Y 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY. 

All Rights Reserved. 



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CONTENTS. 

Introduction and Note, By the Author 

PART I. 



CHAPTER I, 
RHUBARB— ITS CULTIVATION AND HOME. Page 

A fragment of history — Its native home — Its acclimation — Not a 
vital question, 1 

CHAPTER II. 
THE FORCING PLACE. 
The commercial cellar — The house cellar — Cellars with hard 
•floors — Growing in hotbeds — Growing in the greenhouse — 
A cheap forcing cellar — Nooks and corners, 5 

CHAPTER III. 
WORK OF* FORCING. 

Starting the work— Forcing season—Two crops in one season — 
Setting the plants — Handling the roots — Age of roots for 
forcing — Best varieties-, 16 

CHAPTER IV. 
HOW TO SUCCEED. 
Heating — As to temperature — Ventilation — Light — Moisture — 
Fertilizing — Thinning out, 23 

CHAPTER V. 

HANDLING THE CROP. 

Time of maturing— Gathering the crop — Tying up — Marketing, 29 

CHAPTER VI. 
FERTILIZERS. 

Light or thin soils — Barnyard manure — Binders — Acidity of 
soil — Nitrate of soda — Jadoo fibre, 33 



iv THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

CHAPTER VII. 

CULTURE. Page 

Soil — Preparation — Propagation — Unforced roots— Forced roots 
— Plants for setting — Growing from the seed — Tillage, 39 

CHAPTER VIII. 
COMPARISON OF OLD AND NEW METHODS. 

Criticisms answered — The old method — The new method — 
Quality — Adaptability, 48 

CHAPTER IX. 
FUTURE OUTLOOK. 

Magnitude of forcing industry — Creating demand — Benefits, . . 47 

CHAPTER X. 
Extracts from Bulletin, No. 55, June, 1899, Rhode Island 
Experiment Station. By Fred W. Card, M.S., 50 

CHAPTER XI. 
HOW TO USE RHUBARB. 

For dessert — To cook for sauce — To preserve for winter use, . . 59 

PART II. 

CHAPTER I. 
VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 
Sash houses and cold frames — Hot water system — Steam forcing 
in open fields — Exhibition stalks — Home methods, 78 

CHAPTER II. 
EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 

Methods of Long Island growers — Maryland — The Boston dis- 
trict — Illinois — The Northwest — The Pacific coast, 90 

CHAPTER III. 
VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. 

The leading sorts described — Range of adaptation — Northern 
limits — New seedlings — Work of the experiment stations, . 108 

CHAPTER IV. 
HINTS AND HELPS. 

For early market — Insects and blights — Culture of medicinal 
rhubarb — Pie plant for home use — Seed raising — Food value 
— Fertilizing constituents — Irrigation — Field jottings 115 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PART I. 

Page 

Ready for Forcing, 4 

Ready to Market, 6 

Grown in Hotbed for the Christmas Market, 10 

A Bed in the House Cellar, 12 

Plowing Out Rhubarb Roots, 14 

Rhubarb Roots Ready for the Cellar. 18 

Preparing for Market, 28 

On the Display Stand in a Detroit Commission House, 31 

Effects of Nitrate of Soda, 85 

Tools Used in- Rhubarb Culture, 42 

Product of Frozen and Unfrozen Roots, 51 

Leaf Development — In Light and in Darkness, 57 



PART II. 

Long Island Sash House, 74 

Hot Water Forcing House, 75 

Hot Water Forcing House (Interior View), 77 

W. W. Rawson's Cold Frames for Rhubarb, 79 

Long Island Cold Frame, 80 

Sash and Shutter, 80 

Steam Forcing in the Open Field, 84 

Forcing with Liquid Manure, 87 

Rhubarb Field at Jamaica, L. I., 90 

Rhubarb Ready for New York Market, 96 

Rhubarb in Field Culture, 97 

Method of Ridging in Fall and Spring, 99 

Ridged Bed in Winter, 100 

Stalks of Linnaeus, 104 

Stalks of Victoria, 104 

Bunch of Victoria Ready for Market, 105 

Bunch of Mammoth Red, 106 



Vi THE NEW RHUBAKB CULTURPl 

I'age 

Hill of St. Martin's, 107 

Monarch Rhubarb, 107 

Packing Shed for Rhubarb, 116 

Interior Plan of Packing Shed , 117 

The Rhubarb Curculio, 119 

Stalk Injured by Curculio, 120 

Plant of the Medicinal Rhubarb, 121 

Seedling and Root Cutting, 126 



IXTRODrCTION-. 

WiTHix a comparatively short time^ the forcing of 
various garden vegetables has assumed such vast pro- 
portions, that now the products of the forcing house 
are exposed in all the city markets throughout the en- 
tire year, and many relishes in the way of radishes, let- 
tuce, cucumbers, etc., that but a short time ago could 
only be obtained for a few weeks in their special season, 
are now the daily embellishments of the table. But the 
end is not yet; the forcing industry is only in its 
infancy, and will at no distant day revolutionize the 
whole gardening system. 

The expensive methods of glass and greenhouse cul- 
ture ha^e heretofore made it possible for only the few 
to engage in the work, and the consequent high prices 
of the products thus grown have made it impossible 
for any but the more favored ones to enjoy the luxuries 
thus produced. 

Experiments in the dark cellar are demonstrating 
that many vegetables may be there grown in their highest 
perfection, and erelong its inexpensive methods will to 
a large extent supersede the costly glass. 

It is not the purpose of the following pages to in- 
duce farmers and gardeners to rush wildly into an enter- 
prise as yet little known ; but the rather to open up a way 
and a highway whereon many are reaching success and 
spanning the long gap of the profitless Winter months 



viii THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

with a snug cash balance for the profit side of tlie 
ledger. 

If it shall prove thus, and not only the tillers of the 
soil, but many a toiler in the humbler vocations of life 
shall find a grain from which to forge a "golden link 
in the iron chain of toil/' The New Ehubarb Culture 
will more than realize the highest ambitions of 

The Author. 



NOTE. 

A BRIEF note regarding the method of dark forcing 
rhubarh, published in the Rural New Yorker for 1898, 
excited much interest and became the subject of many 
inquiries. In order to more clearly answer the ques- 
tions thus raised a brief outline of the methods was later 
on published in the same paper. 

This gave occasion for some writers with very little 
knowledge of the matter and a few borrowed ideas to 
tell what they evidently did not know about the subject. 
Whole paragraphs of the outline were woven into the 
articles without even the courtesy of quotation marks. 
x\ longer acquaintance with tlie work and some practical 
experience would cause them to disown the children of 
their earlier years and wonder why they had fathered 
them at first. 

While fully agreeing with my illustrious ancestor, 
Solomon, that ^'There is nothing new under the Sun," 
the fact still remains that the woods are full of new 
methods and their results, developed it may be from 
old ideas. The ideas of the dark forcing method are 
doubtless not entirely new. 

To say that I am the author and finisher of the 
method would be misleading. 

But in so far as searching through the highways 
and byways for the fragmentary experiences and efforts 
of many growers, and in so far as gathering up these 
fragments and combining them with several years of 



X THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

personal and practical experience and presenting them 
in the form now offered, the work is essentially my own. 

To make this book still more encyclopedic, and to 
completely cover the whole subject of rhubarb culture, 
by the older methods also, Mr. Fiske has carefully com- 
piled a comprehensive statement of such experiences, 
which forms Part II. of this work. Obviously, however, 
T am not responsible for Part II. 



April, 1901. 



J. E. MORSE. 



PART 1 



CHAPTER I. 

RHUBARB — ITS CULTIVATION AND HOME. 

A Fragment of History. — The cultivation of rhubarb, 
like some well established laws, extends back to the time 
when the memory of man runneth not to the contrary. 

The value of the root as a drug has long been known, 
so long, in fact, that the discoverer of its medicinal 
qualities will never be known, and his name must lie 
hidden in the misty shadows of the past. Its record, 
however, is almost contemporaneous with the earliest 
written history as it is described in the Chinese herbal 
Pen-King supposedly dating back to nearly 3000 B. C. 

For ages its cultivation was confined to its native 
home, China, but in a prepared form finding its way to 
various parts of the w^orld. The cultivation extended 
into India to some extent and India rhubarb finally 
became an established article of commerce. 

It remained for Russia, upon the establishment of 
trade relations with China, to get control of the trade, 
and to so supervise and improve the methods of prep- 
aration that Russian rhubarb became famous the world 
over and its price per pound was nearly three times that 
of opium. 

The cultivation was finally begun in Siberia and 
along the Volga from whence it was introduced into 
England in 1573 and later into France. No attention, 
however, was paid to the leaf stalks, which presumably 
were inferior in size and quality to the product of to- 



2 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

day; but the use of the leaves as a pot herb is mentioned 
in Queen Elizabeth's time. 

The rhubarb cultivated as a vegetable is derived from 
Rheum, of which there are many species and widely dis- 
tributed as to nativity. Nearly two^hundred years ago 
a variety, probably Rheum Rhaponticum, was produced 
in Russia, which developed far larger and finer leaf 
stalks and was known as Crown rhubarb. 

The varieties now in use are liybrids between Rheum 
Rhaponticum, Rheum Undulatum, and Rheum Palma- 
tum, and in England were brought to a high state of per- 
fection in the early part of the present century. 

The old sorts in much favor were Tobolsk and 
Erford. Later on came Mitcheirs Royal Albert and 
Dancers Early Scarlet. 

The principal varieties under present cultivation in 
this country are Myatt's Victoria, Myatt's Linn^us, and 
the Mammoth witli some other varieties, probably seed- 
lings and bearing local names. 

About forty years ago strenuous efforts were made 
in this country, and especially in Michigan, to cultivate 
it as a wine plant. However, the inferior quality of the 
wine together with its supposedly injurious effects, high 
war taxes, and other contingencies, combined to bring 
it into disfavor and the project was abandoned. 

As a vegetable its cultivation is extending both in 
this country and portions, at least, of Europe. 

Its Native Home. — K^ seen from the foregoing, the 
cultivation of rhubarb as a drug is of great antiquity and 
as to locality, widely disseminated. It will also be seen 
that as a vegetable, the varieties now in use are descend- 
ants of a variety originating in a far northern clime. 

Its Acclimation. — The parent, having its birthplace 
in the rug2:ed frosts and snows of Siberia, will its chil- 



ITS CULTIVATION AND HOME. 3 

dren thrive in the warmer hititudes of our own country ? 
Let us see; its native home was doubtless in the region 
of latitude 50. Near the close of tlie eighteenth cen- 
tury it was introduced into England, doubtless through 
the seed; and notwithstanding the abrupt climatic 
changes it had come to great perfection in the early part 
of the present century. This was accomplished through 
growing from the seed and hybridization. The mild 
and humid climate of England produces it in great per- 
fection. The more vigorous climate of our northern 
latitudes produces it in abundance and instan-ces of 
luxurious growth in the higher altitudes as far south 
as North Carolina are recorded. It may seem safe to 
say that through careful seed selection and hybridizing 
it may l^e successfully grown in nearly every section of 
the United States. 

' Not a Vital Question. — While the subject of acclima- 
tion is of great importance and well worth careful and 
continued experiment, it is not a question of life or 
death to the industry. The industry will grow; and 
if climatic conditions bar its production out of some 
localities or even countries, the product, when once in- 
troduced there, will be consumed and the market, at 
least, will not be barred. 



¥ 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE, 




CHAPTER II. 

THE FORCING PLACE. 

In order to so present the method of forcing rhubarb 
that not only the farmer and gardener who may desire 
to grow for market purposes, but the owner of a village 
or city lot may provide a home supply of this whole- 
some luxury from January to April, various plans for 
the forcing place are suggested. 

The Commercial Cellar. — The illustration "Ready 
For Forcing,"' shows a view of a cheaply constructed 
cellar, much in favor with grov/ers for the wholesale 
market. The size is 12 x 50 feet, holding between 500 
and 600 plants set in beds five feet wide, on either side 
of a two foot passageway, running the entire length 
of the building. 

In constructing a cellar of this kind the ground is 
excavated two feet in depth, and posts set two feet deep 
and six feet apart are rough boarded for the walls. The 
plates, 2x6 inches are spiked on top of posts; the 
rafters, same size, being set at a pitch sufficient to shed 
water, and give height to the cellar, which is seven 
feet in the center and three feet at the sides.* 

The roof is of boards either lapped or laid double and 
covered (during the forcing season) with manure to 
a depth of eight inches. 

The entrance is at one end of the cellar through a 
door leading into an entryway 6x12 feet, for the storage 

* This cellar was built entirely of old lumber, and the cost was merely 
nominal. In usinp new material a saving might be made by using lighter 
stuff say, 2 X 4 in. for plates and rafters. 



THE NEW EHUBART? CULTURE. 




THE FORCIXG PLACE. 7 

of fuel, etc. An inner door entirely excluding light 
and frost leads into tlie forcing room. 

Heat is furnished by a small box stove set about 15 
feet from the entrance. The pipe is carried to a flue 
at the rear end of the building. To insure as even dis- 
tribution of heat as possible as well as to economize in 
fuel the pipe should be placed much lower than shown 
in the illustration. 

The view shows the cellar filled with roots and heat 
just started. On Dec. 14^ when the flash light was taken, 
the stalks were just appearing above ground. Twenty- 
seven days later (Jan. 10) 18 doz. were picked and sold 
at 70 cents per doz. or $12.60 for the first picking. 

"Ready To Market/' is a view of the same cellar 
just before the second picking (Jan. 17) when twice the 
amount of the first picking was ready for market. 

Several subsequent pickings were made, after which 
the roots were removed from the cellar and a second 
crop was grown in the same manner as the first. 

This small cellar 12 x 50 feet yielded something 
over $160 worth of rhubarb from the two crops ^grown 
in one Winter. 

The House Cellar. — Many growers having roomy 
house cellars utilize them for the work, in addition to 
the regular forcing cellar described above. To this 
practice no objection can be offered by the most fas- 
tidious, as very little artificial moisture is required and 
consequently no dampness or objectionable odors are 
given off, unless the roots are neglected and left to 
decay after they have ceased bearing. 

In this way the cellar may be utilized at a handsome 
profit during the Winter months; and the convenience 
in caring for, and harvesting the crop is no small item 
to carry to the j^rofit side of the ledger. 



8 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

All iiieideiit in i)()iiit, tlie cellar of a near-by neighbor 
which the writer visited^ gave a return of $144 during 
the Winter. The space occupied was 36 x 54 feet and 
the only heat used was two large lamps. 

On a bleak Winter's day with the mercury 10 or 
15 degrees below zero, the good housewife will appreciate 
going from the busy kitchen right down into a forest of 
the beautifully colored rhubarb growing at her feet, 
ready to pull and prepare for the table; and should she 
tarry a. bit to feast her eyes on the novel sight so rarely 
duplicated in Nature who shall chide her, even though 
the dinner be somewhat late in consequence? 

Cellars with hard floors.^ — Do not fear to use cellars 
with brick, cement, or other hard iloor. During forcing 
the roots make little or no growth and two or three 
inches of loose earth covered over the floor will be 
sufficient. 

Growing in Hotbeds. — A method which gives the 
earliest and best paying crop of all, is to set the roots 
in hotbeds, removing, of course, the old manure and 
soil to sufficient depth to admit the full growth of the 
stalks. There is no extra expense, as the hotbeds are 
already on hand, and later on are used for starting the 
cabbage, tomato, egg and other plants. The boxes are 
covered with two layers of boards, breaking joints, to 
avoid as far as possible the leaching of snow or rain. 
Manure to the thickness of a foot or 18 inches is placed 
around the boxes, and covered on top to the depth of 
six inches. No heat other than that generated by the 
manure is used ; should a higher temperature be requir- 
ed, fresh manure that has been piled until heated, is 
put on, and the forcing is thus hurried at will. 

December 21, I visited the grounds of one of the 
pioneer growers of this section, and the first, I think. 



THE FORCING PLACE. 9 

to adopt the dark-growing method. He had his liouse 
celhir and two large forcing cellars filled ; but as yet used 
no heat. A row of ten hotbeds were being filled, which 
were to be held in cheek until the last of February, when 
the manure would be applied, and forcing begun. Be- 
sides this, he had 12 boxes covered in one unbroken 
mound, six of which were for immediate use, and six 
to follow in succession. I walked over the mound, and 
there beneath my feet, shut away from the light and 
air, and forced entirely by the heat of the manure, the 
rhubarb was growing and ready for the market. Decem- 
ber 20, from three of these boxes 6 x l-t feet in size, he 
picked 31 dozen, which brought, in the wholesale house, 
75 cents per dozen, or $23.25 for one picking. These 
boxes were of the liinnaeus variety, and would give two 
more pickings ; the second picking was expected to be 
best of all. 

This grower is a gardener of over 40 years' experi- 
ence, and says that this is the best paying crop he can 
raise, for the reason that the greater part of the labor 
is done after the other crops are secured, and the sales 
come at a time when so little else can be grown except 
by the expensive methods of growing under glass. 

Groiving in the Greenhouse.' — The space under 
greenhouse benches may be used, by closely boarding 
the sides and ends to exclude the light. This plan 
has been adopted by greenhouse men to some extent ; 
but while seemingly economical in the matter of heat 
is open to some objections. The expense of boarding 
up in such a manner that one side at least, is easily 
accessible, for placing in the roots and removing the 
crop will be no small item. Experiments clearly prove 
that the close warm quarters beneath the benches will 
give too high a temperature and the product will be 



10 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 




Grow 



r.N IN HOT15KU FOH THE CHRISTMAS MAKKKT 



THE FORCING PLACE. 11 

inferior in color, quality and yield, to that grown out in 
the more open space. Too close proximit}^ to the pipes 
gives too high a temiteratnre which is the chief source 
of the trouble; and this can hardly be remedied without 
detriment to the crops growing on top of the benches. 
The strong heat shortens the bearing season of the rhu- 
barb and will also leave the roots much impaired, if 
not wholly unfit for future use in propagating. How- 
ever a quick growth and fair yield may be obtained 
and if no better ^^lace is at hand it will pay to use such 
spaces. 

A Cheap Forcing Cellar. — With none of the above 
described places available a very cheap and serviceable 
cellar may be made by excavating for say, two feet and 
any size desired. The more convenient shape for cover- 
ing and for convenience in work will be in proportions 
of one to three, or four. Build the sides above ground 
with poles, (any size convenient) to the required height, 
and for the pitch of roof cut the end poles shorter each 
time, and draw in the side poles sufficiently to make the 
lap at the corners. Shorten the poles according to their 
size, and the desired height of the building, large poles 
would need to be shorter than small ones, in order to 
avoid unnecessary height. It is better to lay up the 
sides and ends whole and saw out the doorway after- 
ward, use 2x6 in. plank for the door frame spiking 
through into the end of each pole. Cover over with corn 
stalks, straw or other coarse litter, finishing with earth 
to a depth sufficient to insure against any possibility 
of freezing. A flue of sewer crock is easily constructed 
if one wished to heat with wood or coal, but an oil 
or gasoline stove or large lamp placed low down will 
do nicely for heating, if the cellar is not too large. Such 



12 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 




THE FORCING PLACE. 13 

a building will last for years and is very useful for 
other purposes outside the forcing season. 

Nooks and Corners. — The foregoing is, of course, 
descriptive of the methods of the wholesale growers; 
the following suggestions are made with a view to reach 
every home. As remarked in the introduction, the forc- 
ing of vegetables is assuming vast proportions • but with 
all the progress thus far made no vegetable, rhubarb ex- 
cepted, that can in any sense take the place of fruit has 
been utilized. The work is so simple and inexpensive 
that any family possessing a few rhubarb roots may 
now enjoy the luxury the entire Winter through. 

A little thought will suggest a corner in the cellar, 
or lacking this, a storeroom or attic where a few roots 
may be set in a large box and protected from the light 
and cold, and give a supply of this most wholesome and 
delicious vegetable. 

For the sole purpose of demonstrating how easily 
and cheaply the work may be done, a small bed was pre- 
pared in the house cellar. Only ten roots were used ; 
being placed at the end of the cellar close beside a 
potato bin. 

The illustration shows the bed in full bearing, with 
lamp and lantern for heating. The bed was shut off 
from the rest of the cellar by simply tacking an old 
hemp carpet to the floor and sleepers above, letting it 
fall to the cellar bottom. The wall formed one side of 
the enclosure and the carpet was so nailed to the floor 
above as to form the other side and ends. The heating 
cost less than two cents per day, and was only used at in- 
tervals. The bed was for family use. The bearing 
season was prolonged at will by using the heat only oc- 
casionally. The yield was something over 10 dozen 
bunches, worth at going prices about $5.10. 



14 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 




THE FORCING PLACE. 15 

Note on Growing in Hotbeds. — The work of growing 
in hotbeds has one decided advantage which may not 
appear at first sight. 

In the instance referred to under "Growing in Hot- 
beds" the roots were phiced in, during the month of 
ISTovember, before any freezing had occurred. By this 
plan a crop may be forced before it coukl by any pos- 
sibility be secured in any of the ordinary cellars describ- 
ed. It will be observed, however, that this plan of forc- 
ing entirely ignores one very essential feature of the 
general method viz., that of freezing the roots : but 
while entirely practical under certain conditions, it can- 
not be applied in general work and must not be at- 
tempted. It will not be successful in any ordinary cellar 
or in fact any place w^here very strong heat cannot be 
concentrated and brought low down to the roots. 

With the hotbed boxes on hand, and an abundance 
of fresh manure to generate the heat and reinforce it 
as necessary, the forcing may be safely done and give 
an early crop and fancy prices that cannot be obtained 
if necessitated to wait for the roots to freeze. But the 
method is especially valuable in establishing the fact 
that the work may bo successfully done in latitudes 
beyond the limit where freezing may be relied upon. 

This plan of forcing is very exhausting, and the 
roots thus forced will be entirely worthless for purj)oses 
of propagation. 



CHAPTER III. 

WORK OF FORCING. 

Stai'tiiig the Worl-. — As ever increasing competition 
must be met by cheapened production, the prime object 
in every enterprise must be to minimize the labor. 

As the forcing season approaches, with the cellar 
all in readiness, we should give attention to the prep- 
aration of tools for the work. While but few are re- 
quired they should be of the best, and will consist of a 
good plow with well sharpened coulter and sharp clean- 
cutting spades or shovels. The plans for heating should 
also be carefully perfected. With these essentials duly 
provided for we are now ready for the work of the 

Forcing Season. — This will depend on location, and 
weather conditions. Extended experiments have dem- 
onstrated beyond a doubt that by far the best results are 
obtained by thoroughly freezing the roots. While this 
general rule is laid down as positive and not to be 
deviated from, there are exceptions which were treated 
of under another heading, '"Eorcing in Hotbeds." This 
being the case it is better to leave the roots in the ground 
until there is prospect of sufficient cold weather to 
freeze the roots clear through. They will however take 
no injury if left exposed to any sort of weather for a 
reasonable time. In loose sandy soil which does not 
readily adhere, but crumbles off leaving the roots bare, 
it is better to turn them out when the ground is thor- 
oughly soaked, or just before a hard freeze. 

Tiro Crops in One Season. — With a plentiful supply 
of roots and inadequate room for forcing, two crops may 



WORK OF FORCING. 17 

be grown in succession. In this case as soon as the first 
roots cease bearing they should be removed from the 
cellar and protected from severe freezing and thawing; 
this can best be done by piling them in a shed, or giving 
them a light covering of straw or coarse litter. In the 
Spring they may be used for propagating which will 
be treated of in another chapter. The roots for second 
crop may then be placed in the cellar and forcing con- 
tinued. 

Preparing the Roots. — In extensive operations it is 
economy to turn the roots out with the plow. 

The illustration "Plowins; Out Rhubarb Roots," was 
taken on the grounds of an extensive grower and shows 
the work of preparing the roots for the cellar, in actual 
operation. 

With a spade, a line or mark is made along the row, 
but "four to six inches distant from it, as a guide to the 
plow. Set the plow as deeply as possible, turning the 
furrow away from the row; a second furrow is plowed 
on the opposite side of the row same distance from it 
as before, turning the roots over into the first furrow 
plowed. If the coulter is sharp and clean-cutting as it 
should be, this will cut off all the lateral prongs on two 
sides. ISTow with the spade turn the roots out so 
the}^ shall not be buried in the loose soil of the furrow, 
trim off remaining prongs on the other sides, and leave 
them until ready to put into the cellar. In very dry or 
loose sandy soil the earth is liable to nearly all fall off the 
roots when turning them out ; in this case simply turn 
the furrows away from both sides of the row of roots and 
leave the turning out and trimming up until the clumps 
are frozen. They can then be trimmed up and properly 
shaped with the loss of but very little soil. 

The illustration "Rhubarb Roots Readv for the 



18 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 




P5 
< 

K 

X 

« 

c 

<; 

C 

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Pi 



WORK OF FORCING. 19 

Cellar'' shows the roots turned out of the furrow upon 
the snow-covered ground, and trimmed ready for forc- 
ing. 

In small areas, or where from any cause plowing out 
would be impracticable the entire work may be neatly 
and rapidly done with the spade. 

Setting the Plants. — For the work of setting in the 
roots, select if possible, a time when they are frozen 
solid, as they will be cleaner to handle and may be rolled 
or tumbled about like rocks without fear of injury. 
This is not material however, but greatly simplifies 
the work.* 

Cellars will of course, vary much in size and shape ; 
and setting in the clumps should be planned with regard 
to the utmost convenience in caring for, and harvesting 
the crop. If the cellar is long and narrow, one passage- 
way through the center, extending the entire lengtli of 
the building will be sufficient, while a large square room 
might require two or more parallel passageways, or one 
extending through the center the longest way, with 
lateral paths on either side placed at convenient dis- 
tances for picking, in order to avoid trampling on the 
young stalks. Eemembering that each clump will occupy 
about a square foot of space and that they are set as 
closely together as possible, it will not be difficult to so 
plan the position of passageways as to secure the desired 
results. 

As the plants are set in position, loose earth should 
be at hand for filling underneath and between the 
clumps ; enough may be used to entirely cover the .crowns 
of the roots, or they may be left exposed and only the 

•Note. — Do not make the mistake of supposing that the roots must be 
in a frozen condition when placed in the cellar, that is immaterial, pro- 
vided the freezing has actually taken place previously. It is simply a 
matter of convenience and economy to handle the roots in a frozen con- 
dition. 



20 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

crevices between the prongs of the roots and spaces 
between clumps filled in. If the cellar bottom is of loose 
earth, that may be used for the purpose, but if cement or 
other hard floors are used, then the soil will have to be 
carried in. 

With the setting completed, the labor is practically 
over, and very little care is necessary to mature the 
crop. 

Handling the Boots. — A very pleasing feature of the 
work is in the fact that witli the freezing part well over, 
the crop may be matured almost at will. The forcing 
may begin at once or the roots may be held in a dormant 
state for weeks, which matter will of course be governed 
entirely by the temperature. If, as previously men- 
tioned, two crops are grown in the same cellar, the forc- 
ing should begin as early as possible. The roots for the 
second crop may be left in the ground until required for 
use. However, in latitudes where long continued and 
severe freezing is the rule, the safe plan is to dig all the 
roots at one time, piling those required for the second 
crop in a shed, or otherwise slightly protecting them. 
In localities less rigorous, where the open state of the 
ground would most likely admit of digging in mid- 
winter the roots for second crop may be left in the field 
until wanted. 

Whether one, or two crops are grown, one fact should 
be borne in mind if one desires to utilize the forced roots 
for propagating, the forcing process is very exhausting to 
the roots and should be discontinued as soon as lack of 
vigor in the growth of the stalks is noticeable; the 
growth can be stopped only l)y removal from the cellar or 
lowering the temperature to say 30 or 35 degrees. 
Rhubarb is of the get-there nature, and will grow 
itself to death if allowed, especially in the cellar: as a 



WORK OF FORCING. 21 

plentiful supply of the roots is the principal factor in 
extensive growing, it pars to husband them very care- 
fully. 

Age of Roots for Forcing. — For profitable results, 
roots must be thrifty and strong (the larger the better), 
and not less than two or three years old. 

Propagated roots, if well grown will be at their best 
from two to five years old ; while those grown from seed 
need an additional year's growth. For reasons else- 
where mentioned too old roots are undesirable but of 
course may be used if no better can be obtained. 

With large growers the root supply especially for 
the second season's work often becomes a serious prob- 
lem ; after that if rightly managed the trouble will be 
avoided. 

It is not wise to force all the roots in sight the first 
year, lest the second year's work becomes a minus 
quantity. 

To those engaging in the work, we say, plan for the 
future. Husband carefully and feed generously what- 
ever roots you may have, look about among your neigh- 
bors and procure of them as many as they may be able 
to spare. The "Tug of War" is for the first and second 
year's supply, but with reasonable forethought the prob- 
lem will work out in the years following. 

Best Varieties. — Early Strawberry, Linnaeus and 
Victoria are standard varieties, and will, I think, succeed 
wherever rhubarb will grow. The Victoria is considered 
best for forcing, but has the peculiarity of maturing 
its crop all at once. Whether this feature is advan- 
tageous or otherwise will depend on circumstances, and 
must be determined by the grower. It is however a 
great yielder and much sought after in the market. All 
varieties are good and succeed well under both open and 



22 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

forced culture. Early Strawberry and Linn;i,^us are 
earlier than A^ietoria, which is an advantage^ and pro- 
long their season of bearing, a very desirable considera- 
tion if one is growing for home use only. The "Mam- 
moth" while attaining great size, and second to no otlier 
known variety in flavor is green in color, and for that 
reason is undesirable for market purposes. 



CllAPTErt IV. 

HOW TO SUCCEED. 

It is always well to remember that the small or 
medium crop is seldom or never the paying one. ({row- 
ing two blades of grass where one has formerly grown 
must henceforth be the aim of the successful tiller 
of the soil. The up-to-date man courts neither failure 
nor even partial success, but success in its highest sense. 
To attain this goal careful attention to details is the only 
highway. A word of caution seems necessary here. 
While the work is exceedingly simple, study carefully 
the methods and keej:) well within the lines laid down. 
They have brought success, and experiments even though 
seemingly trifling, may prove costly. 

Since introducing this method somewhat to the pub- 
lic, many reports of success have been returned to me. 
Failures too, and with the assurance that every detail 
had been carefully followed. Careful inquiry in every 
case however revealed some vital point overlooked or 
neglected (as failure to apply heat or some other equally 
glaring omission). When these were rectified, success 
was at once assured. The mainspring of success is 
conditicns just right. Be satisfied with nothing less. 
One essential point which involves not only the safety 
but success of the crop is the arrangements for, 

Heating. — Not only ample, but economical heat 
evenly distributed must be provided, and the expense of 
heating even in large cellars is comparatively small, if 
ordinary care is exercised in its application. Place your 
stoves and pipe, or whatever apparatus is used, low 
down. There will be no trouble in the heat ascending; 



24 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

but the plants^ and not the roof or rafters, are what re- 
quire the heat. Plan tlien to apply the heat low down. 

Heating Apparatus. — In Chapter I., the illustration 
showing a cellar with heat just started, shows plainly 
the method used there. In large cellars, two stoves 
placed at given distances from either end will give 
better results. In the house cellar 3G x 54 feet in size, 
described in the same chapter, no other heat than two 
large kerosene lamps was used. In my own house cellar 
20 X 28 feet, I have been entirely successful with a two 
burner gasoline stove. Over one burner was placed an 
adjustable oven, to somewhat assist in radiation; and 
over the other burner a kettle of water. This arrange- 
ment answered to conserve l)oth heat and moisture so 
that in a period of nearly three months, the plants were 
watered but once. It will often occur that a cellar other- 
wise nicely adapted for the work is not provided with a 
flue or smoke escape. In that case, use oil or gasoline 
stoves or large oil lamps. 

In this connection let me mention still another fact, 
which will be of service. ]f, in preparing the cellar, 
due caution is observed to provide absolutely against 
frost, the cost of heating will amount to almost nothing. 
In building cellars then, expressly for the purpose, cover 
the sides above ground and the roof wdth manure, straw 
and earth or anything else at hand so that the tempera- 
ture inside shall not vary with the changes of weather, 
and your heating problem is practically solved. House 
cellars may be thoroughly banked, and root cellars al- 
ready built may be recovered, and so managed as to gain 
the desired results. 

As to Tcmper'ature. — This matter may be entirely 
governed by circumstances. Ehubarb so adjusts itself to 
circumstances that changes of 30 to 50 degrees will not 



HOW TO SUCCEED. 25 

injure it. Should your fires go entirely out in the eold- 
est of weiither no harm will Ije done ])ro\ided the frost 
does not get in. The temperature may vary from -t5 
degrees to 80 or 90 degrees according to circumstances. 
The lower temperatures will of course, give a slower 
growth; with a darker color and perhaps a somewhat 
heavier yield. The higher temperature will in propor- 
tion give quicker returns and a lighter color. The ques- 
tion of yield under higher or lower temperature is as 
yet an open one, and not important as the variations 
would he but slight under any circumstances. 

This range of temperature is perfectly safe, and 
broad enough that the crop can almost be held at will or 
hastened through for quick returns, as is desired. 

Ventilation. — Fortunately the subject of ventilation 
requires little or no attention. But the fact must be 
emphasized to avoid trouble and worry. The truth is, 
that rhubarb forced in hotbeds banked in and covered 
over with boards and manure will thrive and grow at a 
surprising rate. In the cellars the change of air occa- 
sioned by going out and in for attention to the crop is 
entirely sutTicient. 

Light. — Daylight, even in small amounts, must be 
excluded. Admitting it while going out and in for at- 
tention to the crop will do no harm. The growing 
stalks will turn eagerly toward even a small ray of light, 
and if it is steadily admitted, will cause the stalks to dis- 
color and grow crooked, and wherever the light rests 
steadily the leaves will begin to grow, which by all means 
must be avoided. Artificial light unless too bright and 
long continued is not injurious. The blue light as from 
a gasoline stove does no harm ; but in forcing even with 
kerosene lamps, I have demonstrated that the stalks in 
too close proximity to the lamps will be off in color, and 



26 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

the leaves will open out to some extent and Ijegin to 
grow green. Smoking the chimneys to subdue the light 
will entirely obviate tlie ditficulty, and for small or even 
quite large cellars they are entirely practical. 

Moisture. — The question of moisture will depend 
largely on the condition of the roots when placed in the 
cellar. If tlie clumps are well loaded with wet or moist 
soil when planted in, they will go through nicely with 
very little additional moisture. When the soil surround- 
ing the roots is dry at the time of setting, water should 
be freely used when first starting the heat. A kettle of 
water kept on the stove is often all that is necessary 
to carry a crop entirely through. Ordinarily the use of 
water (preferably tepid), to some extent is advisable; 
but many fine crops are matured without additional 
moisture except the use of a kettle as above mentioned. 
The whole matter, however, is easily determined by ordi- 
nary judgment. If needed, apply at any time except just 
previous to picking, as watering then would make bad 
work in gathering the crop. 

Fertilizing. — The work of fertilizing is far more 
easily done in the field; but in case roots are used that 
have not been well cared for, then good results are ob- 
tained by applying a fertilizer in the cellar. 

The writer has had good results with "air-slacked" 
lime applied to the clumps before growth began, at the 
rate of a small tablespoon ful to each plant. Also nitrate 
of soda and water in the proportion of an ounce to the 
gallon, sprinkled on, brings good results. Liquid cow 
manure will also well repay the cost of application. Ex- 
tensive growers have reported very gratifying results by 
mixing cow and horse manure to the consistency of 
batter and pouring over the entire surface of the plants 
as soon as set. No doubt this will send the crop; but 



HOW TO SUCCEED. 27 

would^ I think, be objectionable in the house eelhir. It 
is recommended however, for growers to try the various 
suggestions, and results will determine the most advan- 
tageous method to pursue. 

Thinning Out. — It sometime occurs that numerous 
small stalks spring up that will never grow to any size. 
This may come from low vitality of the roots. In this 
case, thin out useless stalks and apply liquid cow manure 
liberally. It is more often occasioned by insufficient, or 
poorly distributed heat. Cases of this kind have been 
called to my attention where hundreds of stalks not 
larger than a small lead pencil were springing up, and 
very few if any large stalks. Every detail of the work 
had been carefully attended to except the matter of heat, 
that had not been applied. The difficulty was that the 
cellar was naturally a little too warm for the roots to 
lie dormant, but was not warm enough to give any im- 
petus to the growth. Directions were given to turn on 
heat, and in three weeks a nice picking was ready for 
the market. The small stalks should be thinned wher- 
ever they appear as before stated. 

Precautionary Measures. — To guard against insects 
which more or less congregate in such places, and if not 
injurious to the rhubarb nevertheless become a nuisance, 
the cellars should be renovated both before and after the 
forcing season. Fumigate with sulphur, keeping the 
cellar tightly closed for at least twelve hours, after which 
whitewash walls and ceiling with common whitewash, 
adding sulphate of copper (blue vitriol or blue stone) 
in the proportion of one ounce to the gallon, or with 
crude carbolic acid in same proportion. If the walls are 
too roughly constructed to admit of whitewashing, spray 
with Bordeaux mixture full strength, omitting the 
arsenites, but adding the carbolic acid in same propor- 
tions as above. 



28 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 




« 
5 

o 

o 



CHAPTER Y. 

HANDLING THE CROP. 

Time of Maturing.— This of course will depend on 
the temperature maintained, also on the variety. The 
Victoria will require more time than the earlier sorts 
previously mentioned. From tliree to eight weeks will 
be required to mature tlie first picking, and the season 
will continue from three to four weeks or even longer ; 
depending on the vigor of the roots and also the degree 
of heat used. 

Usually 12 to 1-1 inclies high is good height for 
picking; but even less height is often admissible ow- 
ing to size and development. Where the product is 
sold by the pound regardless of height or size there is 
no objection to letting it remain until fully grown, un- 
less a declining market should necessitate haste in gath- 
ering. Here at Detroit essentially the birthplace and 
home of the industry, all transactions are reckoned by 
the dozen. When thus sold, self interest at least, would 
dictate selling as rapidly as reasonable height was at- 
tained, and thus husband the vitality of the roots for 
the remainder of the crop. However it must not be left 
too long under any circumstances, as the stalks grow 
spongy after a time, and falling down, become worthless. 
Experience will soon enable any one to properly judge 
of these matters. 

Gathering the Crop.— This may seem a trivial point; 



30 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

but unless carefully done will result in much waste of 
stalks already fit for the market, and damage to the 
young and tender shoots as well. The clumps themselves 
are liable also to injury from careless pulling or jerking. 
The stalks are exceedingly tender and brittle, and the 
attempt to pull them off will result in breaking them 
off at half length, or just above the ground, which spoils 
the looks of, and shortens the stalks by whatever length 
remains on the clumps or crowns. 

With the right hand carefully grasp the stalk well 
down to the ground, allowing the index finger to lie 
flat against the inner side of the stalk. Push the finger 
downward between the stalk and clump to where they 
unite, then pry and pull in the same motion, and the 
stalk will come off two or three inches below the surface 
of the ground. 

Tying Up. — The illustration "Preparing for Mar- 
ket/' shows the work in operation, which may be done 
by the children after a little showing. The work here 
shown is with the out door grown ; when after the bundle 
is tied the leaves are nearly all removed with the knife. 
The method for the dark forced is the same except, what 
little leaf there is, should be left on, with its beautiful 
lemon color adding much to the appearance of the bunch. 
Gather up the stalks and remove to a convenient place 
for the work. Remove the hulls as shown in illustration, 
and if intended for local trade wash off the adhering 
soil or filth. If for shipping do not wash, as the water 
remaining on the stalk will be injurious; but use a 
brush or small broom instead. In bunching, average up 
the stalks as much as possible putting large and small 
together. The stalks are tied around the butts with 
ordinary bunching twine, three in a bunch, or sometimes 
four, if too small. Twelve bunches are put into a bundle 



HANDLINGr THE CKOP. 



31 



ii:i!smm^.--i' i'9^9WiL vjfe gf-' f.^-^' k.>i '^y- 'Jt^-* 




32 THE NEW JRHUBABB CULTURE. 

and tied around both butts and tops. These bunches 
are called dozens but really contain 36 stalks. The 
bundles are put up in this way solely for convenience 
in the retail trade, the grocers opening up the bundles 
and selling out l)y the bunch. 

Different markets, of course, will require different 
packages ; and the growers must be governed by the de- 
mands of their respecti^'e markets. In putting up for 
the market, imagine yourself the buyer and put up only 
such as you would be willing to buy and pay for. Let 
your trade mark be your customer's guarantee for honest 
goods, and the market will always seek you. 

Marketing. — Many growers depend entirely on the 
local markets, supplying hotels, restaurants, retail 
grocers and private families. Others dispose of the 
crop through the commission merchants, while still 
others ship direct to dealers in distant cities. 

For shipping, the bundles are wrapped in paper and 
boxed, the boxes holding from four bunches upward, 
according to size of orders. 

As the rhubarb would be entirely ruined if frozen 
during shipment, it is usually shipped by express, and 
although rates are ruinously high, the product finds its 
way to nearly all the principal cities of the United 
JStates. 



CHAPTEE YI. 

FERTILIZERS. 

Light or Thin Soils. — As elsewhere referred to, light 
sandy or gravell}^ soils require special treatment, or if 
naturally lacking in essential elements they must be sup- 
plied. 

To supply them in abundance and in the cheapest 
possible manner, should be the study of every intelligent 
tiller of the soil. 

In the soils above mentioned one property very liable 
to be conspicuous on account of its al)sence is 

Humus. — As ordinarily understood this is simply de- 
cayed vegetable matter, and while indispensable to the 
best results for all crops, is especially so for rhubarl). 
Clover, (red or crimson) cow-peas and like crops, ac- 
cording to localities where each, or any of them succeed, 
will furnish this element in abundance. But the nature 
of these crops implies the necessity of preparation and 
rotation previous to growing the rhubarb crop. 

Successful crops in any soil will necessitate these, or 
kindred helps ; but more especially in the lighter soils. 

Barn-yard Manure. — Doubtless the best all round 
fertilizer for all soils and conditions is the ever ready- 
for-business barn-yard manure. It also has the advan- 
tage that it may be applied for plowing under when 
fitting the ground for the immediate crop, or afterward 
as a top dressing. But whatever the base for the humus, 
or however applied, let it be without stint. If possible, 
I would write the legend, "Feed Me," on ever}^ fence 
corner surrounding the rhubarb field. 



34 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

Binders. — A serious lack in all the lighter soils is ad- 
hesion; a something, so to speak, which will bind and 
hold together the particles of soil, rendering them, as 
a whole, less sensitive to the action of heat and drought. 

The agencies best adapted to this work, some of 
which, at least, if not all, are within the reach of every 
one, are air-slacked lime, wood ashes, either leached or 
unleached, swamp muck and marl. These applied in 
large amounts, preferably as a top dressing to be worked 
into the soil will many times repay the cost and labor 
of applying. Any and all are valuable, and are of course 
more easily and economically applied before the plants 
are set out. Old fields will also be much renovated and 
improved, by some of the above applications ; lime espe- 
cially. 

Acidity of Soil. — This subject is so generally over- 
looked by farmers and gardeners that the opportunity of 
drilling in a little deeper and driving it home a little 
harder, slioidd not be lost. 

By careful ex])eriments and observation, I am led to 
believe that many soils otherwise fertile and valuable, are 
losing half their usefulness from no other cause than 
their acidity; and when so easily remedied the wonder 
is, that they are so sorely neglected. The trouble is 
prevalent in almost every variety and condition of soil, 
and its detection is so simple that we give it in brief 
as also, the remedy. Procure from any druggist a piece 
of blue litmus paper, taking care that it never comes in 
contact witli water or becomes damp previous to using. 
Thorouohlv moisten some of tlie soil to be tested and 
with a knife or other tliin blade make an incision. In- 
sert the paper closing back the soil against it, and leave 
for a few minutes, after wliich withdraw it and rinse in 
clear water. The condition of the soil either acid or 



FEETILIZEKS. 



35 




wm 




36 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

otherwise will be determined by the paper. If highly 
discolored and of a dark purple hue, rest assured that 
the soil requires lime and plenty of it. Less discolora- 
tion will indicate less acidity, and consequently less lime. 
From five hundred to two thousand pounds of air-slacked 
lime per acre applied to the surface of, and thoroughly 
worked into the soil will remedy the trouble, and in 
many cases double the crop. The lime while not of it- 
self essentially a fertilizer unlocks the plant food in the 
soil and places it in condition to be assimilated by the 
plant. Wood ashes either leached or unleached will 
also remedy the difficulty, though not as quickly or 
thoroughly as will the lime. The action of some other 
fertilizers is also greatly increased by the previous use 
of the lime, and notably 

Nitrate of Soda. — By courtesy of Dr. John A. Myers 
of New York, under whose supervision extensive ex- 
periments with IN'itrate of Soda have been made, we in- 
sert an illustration showing its effects upon rhubarb. 

Following are the remarks of Mr. R. M. Winans, who 
made the fertilizer experiments. 

"The succulent, watery stalks of the Rhubarb, or 
Pie Plant, are most highly developed by large supplies of 
nitrogenous manures. Heavy applications of jSTitrate of 
Soda early in the spring, before nitrification begins in 
the soil and at the time that the Rhubarb most needs 
a supply of nitrogen, will give the grower a very large 
return for the money invested. 

"There being no established field of Rhubarb at 
hand, our experiment was necessarily confined to plants 
or crowns set this spring. At the time of setting, an ap- 
plication of Nitrate of Soda, at the rate of 150 |)ounds 
per acre, was given to the crowns. T^ater, when growth 
began, two applications were made, first; at the rate of 



FERTTLTZERS. 37 

200 poiiiids, and, second, at 300 jwunds per acre. The 
soda was scattered about the phints l)y hand and hoed 
into the soil ek^-^e to the roots. Tliey thus received a 
total ap})lieati()n ol' (550 pounds per acre in three applica- 
tions. 

"With old established bearing plants larger quanti- 
ties should be applied at the first opening of Spring. 

"The result of this experiment is best shown by the 
accompanying photograph of one treated and one un- 
treated plant standing side by side." 

Nitrogen is what the crop is hungry for in the early 
Spring; and generally speaking there is perhaps, noth- 
ing that will so nearly meet the requirements as the 
application of nitrate of soda. 

It is a well established fact that however much barn- 
yard manure may have been applied, the process of 
nitrification takes place very slowly, until the ground is 
thoroughly warmed by the action of the sun's rays. 

In growing the out door product for market, the 
early crop is always the paying one and the more quickly 
it can be grown the better will be the quality and the 
less the competition from the small fruits that follow its 
season so closely. 

Jadoo Fibre. — Too much emphasis cannot well be 
laid on the promotion of root growth. Vitally impor- 
tant to the successful culture of all plant and vegetable 
life, it becomes doubly so to rhubarb. The forcing 
process is at best very exhausting, and the roots came 
out of the cellar with vitality much impaired. Neces- 
sarily then, they require special feeding and care to 
overcome the strain and recover vigor and size for future 
bearing as quickly as possible. 

The same general principle applies equally to propa- 
gating from unforced roots and also growing from the 



38 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

seed. Ill a comparatively wide range of experiments 
with special fertilizers I have found nothing else so 
fully meeting the requirements of a healthy well- 
developed growth as ""Jadoo/' 

How to Use. — Before using, the fibre should be fined 
by working through a sieve with mesh not exceeding an 
inch. When transplanting place a handful of the fibre 
underneath and around the roots, covering with soil 
and firming afterward. 

In sowing the seed, open the drill sufficiently to 
sprinkle the fibre along the bottom. Sow on the seed, 
covering all with soil. 

In transplanting, use the fibre each time the plants 
are reset, the same as with propagated roots. 

Unfortunately no illustration is at hand from which 
a comparison of treated and untreated plants may be 
drawn. The simple test however, is within reach of 
every grower by following directions given above, and 
in "proving all things holding fast to that which is 
good" the highest objects in life are attained. 



CHAPTER VII. 

CULTURE. 

Soil. — As the cultivation is the same for all methods 
of growing, no distinctions will be made. The ideal 
home or soil for rlnibarl) is a heavy sandy or clay loam, 
naturally cool and moist, yet having good drainage. 
As all do not possess these natural advantages it remains 
for each one to "make circumstances" and so prepare 
the soil whatever kind it may be that the highest pos- 
sible results may be realized. 

Preparation. — Heavy soils should be worked deeply, 
subsoiling in clay if possible. Light sandy or gravelly 
soil, less deeply, leaving the foundation more firm to 
better hold the moisture. In any case, fertilize without 
stint. Ehubarb is a gross feeder and there is little 
danger of over feeding. The lighter soils at least, will 
be much benefited by liberal applications of swamp 
muck, lime and ashes either leached or unleached, all 
tending to hold or l)ind the soil together, thus minimiz- 
ing the tendency to burn or dry out. It will be useless 
to hope for, or expect success in its highest sense at 
least, on ground only moderately fertilized or half tilled. 

Propagation. — To those engaging in the work, either 
for the out door growing of the Summer crop or for 
Winter forcing, the effort should be to get a stock of 
thrifty, vigorous roots in the shortest possible time. 
This result will be gained by propagation provided a 
stock of old roots are at hand from which to propagate. 

The work should be done with a sharp spade or long 
heavy bladed knife. The clumps owing to size, are 
divided into two, three or more sections, taking care 



40 THE NEW RHUBAKB CULTURE. 

not to disturb the crowns or eyes, and making sure that 
each section has one or more eyes. Trim up nicely, care- 
fully removing all broken or numgled portions of the 
roots, leaving of course, as much root as possible. 

Unforced Roots. — When propagating from roots that 
have not been forced, the best results will be obtained by 
digging out late in the Fall and removing to some shed, 
or otherwise slightly protecting, and allow them to 
freeze out through the Winter. The results of the freez- 
ing will be more than satisfactory. However, they will 
succeed nicely if left in the ground until time for trans- 
planting which should be done as early in Spring as 
weather and ground will permit. 

Forced Roots. — As some controversy has arisen over 
propagating from the forced roots, it is well to state that 
when properly handled they are perfectly safe for propa- 
gating, and valuable in keeping up the root supply, and 
whatever professedly wise men may say of their use- 
lessness, and "throwing them on the manure heap," 
should be passed by as idle talk. Simply, when forcing, 
give the roots a chance for their lives, and when they 
begin to decline, stop the growth by removing from the 
cellar to a shed, or otherwise slightly protect them from 
too severe changes, until time for transplanting. 

Divide and otherwise treat them just the same as un- 
forced roots and they will again be ready for forcing 
in from two to three years. The Writer has seen as fine 
roots as could be desired dug out the second year after 
transplanting. 

All propagated roots should be planted into perma- 
nent rows four to five feet apart, and the ground between 
the rows may be used for catch crops the first year. 

Plants for setting. — These may be obtained from 
any of the reliable seed or nursery men ; and will well 



CULTURE. 41 

repay the cost. Time is money, in getting established in 
the work, and they will save from one to two years' time 
over plants from the seed. 

Growing from the Seed. — This then is also recom- 
mended in addition to the work of propagating. How- 
ever, one point mnst not be lost sight of, rhubarb seed 
with one exception, cannot l)e relied npon to reproduce 
its own. Myatt's Victoria is the exception and has be- 
come so thoroughly established in its type tliat it nearly 
always comes true to name. Hence to sow seed from any 
and all varieties, at hand would be unsafe (except for 
experimental purposes) and liable to result in serious 
loss of time. Experiments however, are always in order 
and many times very useful ; as many valuable varieties 
are thus discovered and added to the list of both fruit 
and vegetables. 

The seed is sown in hotbeds early in the Spring, in 
drills four to six inches apart, or in the open ground as 
early as weather will permit in rows 12 or 15 inches 
apart. When the plants are well up and somewhat 
established, thin to three or four inches in the row. 
When six to eight weeks old transplant 12 to 15 inches 
apart in the rows. If sown in the open ground, thin out 
the rows to the proper distance using the plants thus 
removed for other rows. 

The work of transplanting will be greatly simplified 
by opening the rows with the plow, turning a shallow 
furrow for the plants, and deeper, according to size, for 
propagating roots. 

Thorough tillage must be kept up the entire season 
through to give all the growth possible. The following 
Spring, transplant into permanent rows four to five 
feet apart. 

Tillage. — Eemember that the largest possible growth 



42 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 




CULTURE. 43 

is the object sought ; it follows, then, that tillage must be 
thorough and constant. It will be essentially the same 
whether propagated, grown from plants or from seed. 
The ground should bo covered with a heavy coat of 
manure in the Fall, and in tlie Spring it should be 
cultivated in. As soon as the frost is out sufficiently, 
fork the ground thoroughly along the rows and in the 
hills, letting in the sunshine and giving the plants an 
early start. 

Note 1. — N'o stalks should be picked the first season; 
and none should ever be allowed to go to seed, as it is 
very exhausting. After the first year the stalks can be 
pulled for the market but should not be drawn upon too 
heavily, especially if designed for forcing in the Winter. 

During the bearing season, the cultivation of course 
has to be discontinued, on account of interfering with 
the crop. Hence then, the great importance of 
thorough work while it can be done. As soon as the 
bearing season is over cultivation should again begin, 
especially if the roots are to be forced during the Winter. 
The heavy draft upon the plants during the bearing 
season together with the hot dry weather often prevalent 
during the whole after season, all tend to weaken and 
impair the vitality. Thorough cultivation at this time 
is highly necessary to stimulate the roots and to destroy 
the grass and weeds which would otherwise absorb the 
moisture and plant food which the roots so much re- 
quire. 

If Winter forcing is to follow, a heavy application of 
barnyard manure should be applied along the rows. If 
to remain standing for the following year, the manure 
need not be applied until later, say after the ground 
freezes when it should be applied sufficiently heavy to 
well cover the entire surface. 



CHAPTER VIIL 

COMPARISON OF OLD AND NEW METHODS. 

Criticisms Answered. — A brief outline of the New 
Culture published in the Rura] New Yo?-l'er of 1898 
furnished the text for critieisnis l)y some of the Eastern 
growers, especially in the vicinity of Boston where the 
old glass method of field forcing is still in vogue. 

Judgment was hastily passed, and the New Culture 
was sent to the rear, as being too expensive for the slight 
advance in price and the limited demand for the pro- 
duct. Answering the criticisms in a later issue of the 
same paper it was sliown that the expense of the old 
method for forcing upon the scale carried on in the 
West would be beyond the reach of the ordinary gar- 
dener. As to prices and demand, large quantities were 
grown here at highly remunerative prices and sold in 
nearly all the large Eastern cities, Boston included, with 
express and commission men's charges added. 

The Old Method.' — As practiced in the East, the old 
method consists simply of constructing a rough board 
shed over the plants as they grow in the field. The 
shed is three or four feet high on the front side and 
one foot higher at the l)ack to give the slope for the 
glass. The ends are boarded up and the sash are put 
on resting upon tli(> rafters. No heat is used other 
than the sunlight wliich the glass conserves. The forc- 
ing usually begins the latter part of February or first of 
March. The roots are not lifted but remain in the rows 
four to five feet apart, and to force in quantities w^ould 
require glass by the acre. The same method was former- 



COMPARISON OF OLD AND NEW METHODS. 45 

ly practiced by Western growers, except that to econ- 
omize in glass, the roots were dug out and placed in hot- 
bed boxes. It is a back nundjer here, however, for many 
reasons. 

First, the color and ({uality by the New Culture are 
vastly superior to that grown under glass, second, the 
old method can hasten the crop but a few days at best, 
whereas tons of it can be grown in the cellars before 
the glass out in the held could have the least possible 
effect. Third, the dark forcing gives very little leaf, 
never opening out on a large portion of the stalks. 
Grown under glass, most of the strength is lost in the 
leaf which grows rank and green. 

By the new metliod, rhubarb, and a finer quality 
than was ever grown in tlie liekl or under glass, may be 
grown for home use or market from the middle of 
December to April. 

Growing in Greenhouse. — This method is essentially 
the same in detail, though not in results, as the new 
culture. The labor of liftino- and settino- the roots would 
be the same. The season under either would be prac- 
tically the same. At this point the methods part com- 
pany and the results of the new culture by practical 
demonstrations are clearly shown to be far and away 
ahead of the old, first as to. 

Quality. — Xo method of culture, eithei- outdoor or 
forced, where light is used has ever produced an article 
equal to the dark forced. The color, quality, and absence 
of leaf are all in favor of the new culture; and in so 
far as tested for that particular point the yield is also 
greater. And as to, 

AdaptahilUji. — (Ireenhouse culture would of neces- 
sity be limited to a very few growers, and they the lucky 
possessors of a greenhouse. In the Xew Culture, the 



46 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

field is the world, applicable to all from the extensive 
farmer down through the various grades to the owner 
or renter of a city or village house and lot. The enter- 
prise has come to stay, and the growers by this method 
will be the harvesters, while the followers of the old 
methods will, of necessity, be merely the gleaners. 



CHAPTER IX. 

FUTURE OUTLOOK. 

The magnitude of the forcing industry, as elsewhere 
referred to, has reached a lirait heretofore unthought 
of, but as we firmly believe, it is yet in its infancy. Yet 
with all its magnitude the dwellers in the rural districts 
are practically shut out of its benefits. True, the farm- 
er on his periodical trips to the village or city market 
can buy these products provided his entire load of 
produce will sell for enough to buy these delicacies, suf- 
ficient for a meal or two. It is refreshing and pleasant 
to know that this one industry is brought right to the 
farmer's door, and by its cheapness and simplicity, one 
product of the forcing industry, and that the most de- 
licious yet produced may be enjoyed by every farmer 
and his family as the fruit of his own labor. While this 
is the fact nevertheless comparatively few will under- 
take it for they will all begin ''with one accord to make 
excuses. '^ 

While entirely practicable and feasible for nearly all 
classes, and especially farmers and gardeners to sujjply 
themselves with this luxury from January to May, it 
would be entirely impracticable for all to engage in 
the work as a business. Individual circumstances and 
surroundings must be carefully studied, as access to 
markets, facilities for maiiitaining the root supply and 
many other features. 

A headlong plunge into the work as "the horse 
rusheth into the battle,*" would to many mean failure. 
Here in Detroit, essentially its home and birthplace as 



48 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

an established enterprise, thousands of dollars are paid 
the gardeners every winter for the product. Tons are 
consumed here and tons are shipped away, reaching 
nearly all the principal cities of the United States. Yet 
comparatively few of the farmers or gardeners are en- 
gaged in the work. Scores and hundreds of the people 
here never heard of the enterprise and themselves, prob- 
ably, never tasted the product. Yet the enterprise is 
growing, and the work is extending, and erelong the 
growing of the roots for forcing will be a business of 
itself. 

The Demand. — Within the recollection of many not 
old enough to be very near relatives of Adam, tomato 
growing has grown to marvelous proportions; but the 
demand for tomatoes had to be created. The demand 
will have to be made for winter rhubarb. 

But this is only history repeated. Figuratively 
speaking the luxuries of yesterday become the necessities 
of to-day, and once having tested the qualities of this 
new delicacy its merits will fully establish its necessity; 
and the men who grow it and help to build up that 
demand, will get in on the first floor and make the 
money. 

The growers here are often unable to obtain what 
roots they need for immediate use and are ready to pay a 
fair price, $10 per 100, and do their own hauling for 
thrifty forcing roots. They can be profitably grown at 
that price, as the ground for the first year after trans- 
planting can be advantageously used for catch crops 
and the second year should yield sufficient rhubarb to 
pay all expenses of caring for the crop. 

Thus tlie outlook seems encouraging from any stand- 
point. Competition, for the present at least, will ho 
chieflv confined to localities north of say 38 degrees, and 



FUTURE OUTLOOK. 49 

while localities south of that should become valuable 
markets for the product, the production of the crop could 
not be depended upon except through acclimating the 
plants elsewhere referred to. 



CHAPTER X. 

Extracts from Bulletin No. 55, 1899.- 
Rhode Island Experiment Station. 

In the Rural Neiv YorJcer for 1898, page 736, ap- 
peared a brief note calling attention to the fact that 
rhubarb may be forced in the dark in any ordinary frost- 
proof cellar or out-building. Not knowing of the ex- 
cellent articles which were to follow, the subject was 
thought to offer an interesting field for further inquiry. 
Some simple experiments were therefore begun, to test 
the feasibility of thus growing it. 

Plants from the college garden were thrown out of 
the earth December 6th, before the ground had frozen. 
Six of these were transferred to the greenhouse at once. 
Three were placed on a bench next the eaves, which, 
though not the lightest part of the house, gave them 
practically full sunlight. The other three were placed 
underneath a bench with sides and ends closely boarded, 
to keep them in darkness. December 17th, after the 
plants in the field had been thoroughly frozen, additional 
ones were brought in and placed beside the first in the 
two positions above mentioned. 

On January 6th, it was noted that the plants brought 
in at first, without freezing, although having been in 
the house longer than fhv otliers, were far Ijehind tliem 
in activity. Thosc^ on tlie bonch(\^, ex]iosed to full light, 
liad l)aroly l)egun growth, one iK'ing almost dormant. 
Of those brought in after freezing, tlie ones on the bench 
were making considerable growth, there being many 



EXPERIMENTS IN KHODE ISLAND 



51 




52 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

stalks three to four inches long, with leaves unfolding. 
In darkness, the plants brought in without freezing were 
making a little growth, while those which had first been 
frozen had sprung into rapid growth, there being many 
excellent, vigorous stalks, some of them 12 to 20 inches 
long. On these but very little leaf had developed, almost 
the entire growth being made up of stalk. Some plants 
had thrown up many small and weak shoots, while others 
threw up fewer, but more vigorous and desirable ones. 
The difference between the frozen and unfrozen plants 
was surprising, the unfrozen ones having produced but 
few stalks and only one to three inches long. Although 
the house in which they were grown is run at a very low 
temperature, for lettuce, this position underneath the 
bench near the pipes was a close and warm one. 

January 9th, five large plants and three small ones 
were placed in the cellar of a dwelling house, in a corner 
where light could be practically shut off. A furnace 
stands in the cellar about 1 5 feet from where the plants 
were placed. The cellar is a very large one and the 
temperature in it probably ranges about the same as 
that of an ordinary cellar without a furnace. At the 
time the crop was being harvested it ran about 40 de- 
grees, Fahrenheit. Water stands in parts of the cellar 
and the ground upon which the plants were placed was 
wet and muddy. At the same time large roots were 
placed under the greenhouse bench beside those put in 
early. All these roots had lain on toi) of the ground, 
subjected to repeated freezing and thawing, rain and 
snow, for more than a month. It seemed prol)able that 
they would be much weakened thereby. 

On eTanuary 10th, tlie best stalks from eacli lot ])laced 
in the greenhouse December Stli, and 17tli, were pulled 
and photographed. The product from frozen plants 



EXPERIMENTS IN RHODE ISLAND. 53 

grown in darkness proved to be exceptionally fine, the 
color at base being bright cherry and varying to light 
pink toward the tip, the extreme upper end approaching 
straw color, the leaf being lemon yellow. The stalks 
grown in daylight varied from sultan to maroon color, 
with tinges of green on the flat side toward the leaf, the 
leaf itself being dark new green. Xone of the product 
from that brought in without freezing, and none from 
the frozen plants grown in daylight, was suitable for 
gathering at this date, but the best of it was taken for 
comparison. Of that grown in darkness, from frozen 
plants, only those stalks which had made as good growth 
as they were likely to make were gathered, and but three 
of these appear in the photograph. Some stalks were 
longer than those shown. 

On January 19th, the plants l)rought in on the 9th, 
were observed to be starting into growth nicely, many 
stalks being three to four inches long. The ones placed 
in the dwelling-house cellar showed no activity. These 
latter had only pushed slightly above the soil on January 
30th, and gave their first product March 11th. 

By the middle of February those plants first brought 
in had begun to decline, the stalks being small and 
slender. They were apparently nearly past their use- 
fulness. All those growing under tlie bench were taken 
out February 27th; those placed on the bench were re- 
moved March 6th, and the ones brought in in January 
were taken from under the bench March 17th. 

The total yields obtained are as follows : — 

Total. Av. per plant, 
lbs. oz. lbs. oz. 
Plants brought in Dec. 8th, not frozen, 

No. 1, 3 plants, grown in the light, 1% % 

No. 2, 3 plants, grown in darkness, 5 b% 1 12y\ 



Total, 
lbs. oz. 


Av. ] 

lbs 


per plant, 
oz. 


41 1 


4 


9 


43 ly^ 





^ 


41 5>^ 


5 


2ii 


07 


13 


6 



54 THE NEW RHUBARB CtTLTURE. 



Plants brought in Dec. 17tli, frozen, 
No. 3, 1) plants, grown in the light, 
No. 4. 7 plants, grown in darkness, 

Plants bronght in Jan. 9th, repeatedly 
frozen, 

No. o, 8 plants, greenhouse darkness. 

No. 6, 8 plants (5 large 3 small), 
cool cellar, dark, 

Too much dependence must not be placed on these 
yiekls. Plants taken from the college garden were used, 
the variety being unknown. They may, or may not have 
yielded as well as plants should. The conditions were 
not such as to warrant drawing definite conclusions con- 
cerning comparative yields, but they do show very clearly 
the necessity of allowing plants to freeze before attempt- 
ing to force them. They also seem to show some advan- 
tage in yield in favor of plants grown in darkness rather 
than in light. But the most striking difference is shown 
in the greater yield from plants grown in the dwelling- 
house cellar, as compared with those grown under green- 
house benches. 

As to the length of time required after bringing the 
plants in from the field, it may be said that in the above 
lots, ISTo. 1, unfrozen, grown in the light, yielded prac- 
tically nothing at any time. N"o. 2, unfrozen, grown in 
darkness, yielded the bulk of its crop more than two 
months after being placed in position. No. 3, frozen, 
grown in light, gave its first large picking eight weeks 
after being brought in and the second two weeks later, 
the bulk having been taken at these two times. No. 4, 
frozen, grown in darhness, yielded several pounds 17 
days after being brought in and the bulk, within the next 
two weeks, but continued to yield something for a period 
of six weeks. No. 5 yielded one pound per plant three 



EXPERIMENTS IN RHODE ISLAND. 55 

weeks from the time it was brought in, giving its heaviest 
jdelcl at the end of six weeks and a good yield at eight 
weeks. 

Xo. ('), phiced in a cool cellar, gave its first product a 
little more than two months after being placed there. 
This lot continued to produce for two months. The 
effect of temperature and of freezing on the time of 
maturity is fully shown, Init not the influence of light, 
for while No. 3 was much slower in yielding its return 
than No. 4, brought in at the same time, the temperature 
underneath the bench, where Xo. -t was grown, was much 
higher than the bench, where No. 3 was grown. 

To test the cooking qualities of the product grown in 
darkness as compared with that grown in light, samples 
of each were cooked separately, as nearly alike as pos- 
sible, and placed on the table together. If properly 
cooked, that grown in darkness makes a more attractive 
sauce than that grown in the light, preserving much of 
the same clear, bright color seen in the fresh stalks. 
The product grown in the light makes a darker sauce, 
tending toward a dull, greenish unattractive color. Its 
flavor, on the other hand, seems to be somewhat more 
pronounced, perhaps a little richer, and would doubtless 
be preferred by some. The flavor of the two products is 
not alike, and the question of preference, would depend 
chiefly upon the individual. The attractiveness of sauce 
or pies made from the product depends chiefly upon the 
method of cooking and the external color of the stalks, 
it being unnecessary to remove the skin in either case. 
This color of the stalk is in turn dependent upon the 
conditions under which it is grown. In general, the 
higher the temperature, the lighter will be the color. 

That taken from the cooler dwelling-house cellar 
was much brighter and more highly colored than that 



56 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

grown in the warmer position beneath the greenhouse 
bench. Stalks growing in the light also vary in color, 
owing doubtless to individual characteristics of the 
plants as well as to differences in the condition of liglit 
and heat. The color is best preserved in cooking by 
placing the product over the fire in cold water and allow- 
ing it to heat gradually. Hot water applied at first 
extracts much of the color. 

* * * . ^ comparison between the normal leaf 
development of light-grown and dark-grown stalks is 
shown in the illustration "Leaf Development in Light 
and in Darkness." The product grown in darkness is 
far more attractive than that grown in the light; if 
not forced too hard it possesses a bright cherry or ox- 
blood color, and the leaf is very small. That grown 
in daylight possesses a darker aud duller color some- 
what mixed with green, and the leaf is large, as when 
grown in the open air. The contrast in leaf develop- 
ment, both in size and color, is very striking. The waste 
product is, in the one case, large, in the other almost 
nothing. 



SUMMARY. 

* * * Summing up these fragments, I wish 
to impress upon every one who has a garden with rhu- 
barb in it, the fact that he and his family may be enjoy- 
ing in February and March of next year, a more beauti- 
ful product than ever grows in the open ground. To do 
it he will need to transfer a few roots to a dark corner 
of the cellar after they have frozen in the fall, packing a 
little fine mellow earth about them, and then simply 
see that the plants are kept moist. Whoever owns a 
garden with no rhubarb in it, should see that some is 



EXPERIMENTS IN RHODE ISLAND. 



57 




58 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

planted there forthwith. A warm cellar will hasten the 
crop; but a moderately cool one, will give a tiner product 
and probably a better yield. The length of time between 
planting and harvesting varies from less than three 
weeks to more than two months, depending chiefly upon 
the temperature. xVllowing the roots to freeze in the 
field will greatly facilitate forcing. Large roots should 
yield five to 10 pounds per plant ; and every 10 ounces of 
that yield will make a delicious pie. 



Note. — It is with no small degree of pleasure and 
satisfaction that we append the above bulletin almost 
entire. Kingston was, I think, the first experiment 
station to take up and verify the work as previously 
exemplified by myself. The encouragement thus given 
this new industry will be of vast importance to the 
people at large not only as producers, but also to the 
consumers of the product. 

AUTHOR. 



CHAPTER XI. 

HOW TO USE RHUBARB. 

For Dessert. 

Bhuharl) Pies. — To ordinary pie crust (which is 
made with a teaeiipful of shortening to three teacupfuls 
flour, and three-fourths teacupful very cokl water) add 
half teaspoonful salt and one teaspoonful haking powder. 
Sift the salt and powder with the flour, add to this the 
shortening, blend it with a knife and lastly add the 
water — ice water is best. Use tlie hand as little as 
possible in the mixing so as to keep the paste cool. At 
once roll out, fill and bake. For berry, pumpkin, or any 
juicy pies the baking powder makes a dryer crust as it 
prevents the ready absorption of the juices as in ordinary 
pie crust. 

Bliubarh Pie No. 1. — Stir into two cupfuls of rather 
finely chopped rhubarb, a cupful of sugar with which a 
tablespoonful of flour has been thoroughly mixed ; then 
add a beaten Qgg and arrange in a pie-plate with two 
crusts. Let the oven be hot at first that the crust may be 
properly baked, after which cool the oven to moderation 
and take the pie out when it has baked 30 minutes al- 
together. Rhubarb pie, like all pastry, is best the day it 
is made. 

Rhubarb Pie No. 2. — Two cups of chopped rhubarb, 
one and one-quarter cups sugar. Put in shallow sauce- 
pan with one-fourth cup of water and cook very fast. 
When cold, line a pie plate with paste, wet the rim, 
add the rhubarb and lay three or four bars of paste 



GO THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

across, forming diamond-shaped spaces, pnt a rim abont 
the pie, wash over witli the beaten yolk of an egg and 
bake in a quick oven 15 minutes. 

Rliubarh Pie No. S. — Beat one egg with three-fourths 
cupful of sugar and a tal^lespoonful of floilr. To this 
add a cupful of rhubarb chopped or cut fine. Bake with 
one crust. When done, cover the pie with the beaten 
white of an egg, sweeten to taste, and let it brown in the 
oven. 

Blmharh Pie No. 4- — Over three cups of finely 
chopped rhubarb pour cold water, let stand 10 minutes, 
then drain; mix two tablespoonfuls of flour with one 
and a half cups of sugar, the yolks of two eggs and a 
heaping tablespoonful of butter, beat well, then add four 
tablespoonfuls of water, and the rhubarb. Stir all to- 
gether and bake with a lower crust only. When done 
make a frosting with the whites of the eggs and six 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, spread over the top of the pies 
and return to the oven to brown. This amount will make 
two pies. 

Pie Plant Charlotte. — Wash and cut pie plant in 
small pieces, cover the bottom of a pudding dish with 
a layer of pie plant and sugar, then a layer of bread 
crumbs and bits of butter, and so on until the dish is 
full, having the crumbs on top. Bake half an hour in 
a moderate oven. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound 
of fruit. 

Pie Plant Pudding. — Cover the bottom of a pudding 
dish to the depth of one and one half inches with pie 
plant cut in fine pieces, and a very liberal allowance of 
sugar. Make a rich batter of one cup of thick sour 
cream, one teasj^oonful soda, one of salt (both level full), 
and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Pour this over 
the pie plant and bake one-half liour, or steam three- 



HOW TO USE RHUBARB. 61 

quarters hour. When done, turn bottom side up on a 
large plate and spread with butter and sugar; or cover 
with thick sweet cream and sugar with a little nutmeg 
grated over the top. 

Emergency Pudding. — Place a thick slice of fresh 
bread (from which the crust has been removed), upon 
a fancy dessert plate, cover the bread thickly with stewed 
and well sweetened rhubarb, add a generous layer of 
sugar, grate a little nutmeg over it and pour thick 
sweet cream over all and serve immediately. Prepare as 
many plates as there are people to serve. 

Pick-up Pudding. — Cover slices of stale sponge cake 
thickly with stewed rhubarb well sweetened; cover with 
whipped cream and dust powdered sugar over the top. 

Best of all Pudding. — One tablespoonful butter, one 
Qup sugar, one egg well beaten, one pint flour, two tea- 
spoonfuls baking powder, one cup sweet milk, beat well 
and bake in two deep pie tins. As soon as done remove 
from oven, cover with pie plant marmalade and this in 
turn with the white of an egg and three tablespoonfuls 
of sugar whipped to a stiff froth, return to the oven to 
brown. Serve warm. 

Ho IV to cook Rhuharb for Sauce. — ^N'early all the 
recipes for cooking acid fruits advise adding the sugar 
after the sauce has become perfectly cold, claiming that 
the acid acting upon the sugar changes it to glucose and 
that the higher the temperature the more rapidly the 
change takes place, so that much more sugar is required, 
if it is added while the same is cooking. 

Now we have no quarrel with our scientific friends, 
but we had always thought the flavor, color and texture 
of rhubarl) sauce, sweetened just before removing from 
the fire, much finer than when the sugar was added 
just before serving; so we quieted our conscience about 



62 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

the extra sugar used, by thinking how much better the 
sauce tasted. 

To test the matter botli methods were tried; 12 
ounces of rhubarb were placed in a shallow stew pan with 
three ounces of water, closely covered and stewed rapidly 
until done, it was then turned out in a dish and set 
away to get cold. 

The sauce pan was then washed and 12 oz. of rhubarb 
and three oz. of water was again cooked as at first, just 
before it was done, four oz. of sugar was added and the 
sauce allowed to boil one minute, when it was turned 
into a dish to cool. 

Just before tea time, four oz. of sugar was added to 
the unsweetened sauce and well stirred in. Five people 
were at the table and to each one was given two dishes 
of sauce, that which had been sweetened wliile cooking, 
in a glass dish, and the cold sweetened, in a china one; 
after testing, each one was asked which sauce had the 
better flavor, also which was the sweeter, and the most 
attractive in appearance. 

Every one at the table voted for the sauce in the 
glass dishes, as being best in flavor and appearance; two 
of the number could detect no difterence as to sweetness, 
while the other three thought it the sv/eeter. 

This test was perfectly impartial, as not one of the 
people who ate the sauce knew which dishes contained 
the sauce sweetened while cooking. 

And now is our conscience clear, and lietli down like 
a lamb, as we put tbc sugar into the ])ie plant while 
cooking. 

Forced Ilhubarh ^Sdiirr. — Wash the stalks and cut in 
inch lengtlis without })eeling. Put in a shallow stew 
pan with a very little cold water and cook over a brisk 
flre; when nearly done add one cup of sugar for every 



HOW TO Uf^E RHUBARB. 63 

two of rhiibarbj let boil up and turn out to cool. Always 
use a porcelain or granite stew pan and turn into a glass 
or china sauce dish, as soon as cool enough to insure 
against breaking. 

Cooked in this way the sauce will be a beautiful rose 
pink in color, and in flavor and texture, ''Fit to set 
before the King.'' 

Ehubarb grown in the field or garden may be cooked 
the same as the forced product, in the early spring; but 
later in the season, the following way will be found more 
satisfactory. 

RJiubarh Sauce No. 2. — Wash and peel the stalks 
and cut in inch lengths. Pour boiling water over the 
rhubarb and let it stand until cold. Drain, and to each 
pint of rhubarb add one cupful of sugar. Let it stand 
until juice enough is extracted to cook it without adding 
any water. Simmer slowly until done. 

To Preserve for Wi'ufer Use. 

Rhubarb JelJij. — Pie plant or Rhubarb, alone will 
not make firm jelly ; combined with a])ple or grape juice 
a firm, fine flavored jelly may be produced. 

Stew the rhubarb until tender, strain througli a 
jelly bag. Take nice tart red apples, wash and cut in 
fine pieces without peeling or removing the seeds or cores 
(unless wormy), stew as for sauce, but do not mash them 
up, turn into a jelly bag and let drain. Boil the rhubarb 
juice ten minutes then add the apple juice and boil 
twenty minutes. Warm, in the meantime, the sugar in 
the oven, stirring it often to keep from browning; allow 
one pound for each pint of the juice (measured before 
boiling) ; add the sugar to the l)oi]ing juice and continue 
to l)oi] until it jellies on the skimmer; remove from the 



64 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

fire and turn into glasses. Let stand 24 hours, and 
cover with a thin layer of refined parafhne wax. Tie 
down closely with paper, or use tin covers if you have 
them and keep in a cool dark place. 

Rhubarb Marmalade: — Wash, peel, and cut up the 
rhubarb; weigh and put into a preserving kettle and 
stew until tender, add sugar in proportion of pound to 
pound; let cook slowly, stirring very frequently. Be 
careful not to let it scorch ; an asbestos mat under the 
kettle will be a safeguard. When the sauce has a clear 
jellied appearance it is done. Take from the fire and 
put in glass jars. 

Canned Rhubarb. — Prepare rhubarb exactly as for 
sauce. Use glass cans, fill them with boiling hot sauce 
until it runs over the top of cans, put on the covers and 
screw down as tightly as possible, wipe the can off clean 
and with the back of a heavy butcher knife press the 
flange of the cover down tightly against the rubber. Do 
not meddle with the tops after they become cold, trying 
•to tighten them then, does more harm than good. 

Canning R/mbarb in Cold Water. — Wash, peel, and 
cut up the rhubarb, have the cans clean and well scalded ; 
put a cup of water in eacli can and fill in with the cut 
rhubarb pressing the pieces snugly together ; set the 
can in a deep tin pail and pour cold water into can until 
it runs over, then fill uj) the pail so the top of the can 
is well under tlic water, when no more air bul)bles rise 
from the can screw the cover on as tightly as possible. 
Remember the entire process of putting on the covers 
must be done under the surface of the water, this will 
effectually exclude the air, and if ])roperly done the 
rhubarl) will keep ])err('ctly. W hen ready to use, ])()nr 
off the water into the vinegar barrel and use the rhubarb 



HOW TO USE RHUBARB. 65 

for sauce or pies, same as though gathered fresh from 
the garden. 

Rhuharh Cool-ed in tlie Can. — Make a very rich syrup 
and fill the cans about one third full, then fill to the top 
with cut rhubarb, pressing the pieces into the can as 
tightly as possible; put the covers on loosely. Have a 
rack made with a slatted bottom which will fit in the 
bottom of the wash boiler, set boiler on the stove with a 
little water in the bottom, then set in as many jars of 
fruit as you can and put more water in boiler, until 
it comes within an inch or two of the top of cans; boil 
at least 10 minutes from the time the water reaches 
the boiling point. Lift the cans from the water and set 
on a thickly folded newspaper, take ofi^ the cover and 
fill the can to overflowing with hot syrup, put on the 
rubber and screw on the cover as quickly as possible. 
To make the syrup, allow one cup of water and 10 oz. 

of sugar for every quart jar, put in a sauce pan and let 

come nearly to the boiling point. 

Rhubarb can be put up without sugar, observing the 

general directions given above, using clear water in 

place of the syrup. 

Rhuharh Slwrtcal-e. — This is sure to be appreciated 

by the whole family. Bake in flat tins a shortcake of 

rather rich biscuit dough, split open, butter well and 

spread with stewed pie plant. Serve with sugar and 

cream. 

Rhuharh and Apple Pie. — Chop together an equal 

amount of apples and rhubarb. Fill a deep pie dish with 

this, putting in plenty of sugar, a lump of butter and 

sprinkling over the fruit a little flour. Cover with a 

top crust and bake. 

Rhuharh Shinip. — Peel and cut quite fine sufficient 

pie plant to measure one quart. Add to this a scant pint 



66 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

of sugar and simmer gently until tender. Eub together 
one and one-half cups of flour, one tablespoon butter, 
one teaspoon sugar, one quarter teaspoon salt and one 
heaping teaspoon baking powder. Wet with milk to a 
soft dough, which turn on to a floured board and roll out 
in a thick sheet that will just fit the top of the saucepan 
containing the rhubarb. La}- this carefully over the 
stewing fruit, cover closely and simmer slowly for half 
an hour longer. Then lift the cooked crust to a deep dish 
and pour the pieplant over. Eat hot as it is, or serve 
cold with cream. 

Rhuharh Betiij. — Soak l)read crumbs in salted water 
until soft ; and arrange in a pudding dish alternate lay- 
ers of the crumbs and rhubarb cut into small pieces. 
Sprinkle a generous amount of sugar and a little nutmeg 
on each layer. Dot the top with butter and bake in the 
oven until brown. Can be eaten with butter and sugar, 
or a hard sauce. 

Rhuharh Fool.' — prepare a sauce with one ([uart cut 
up stalks and one pint sugar. When cooked rub through 
a sieve, return to the fire and stir for 10 minutes. Then 
set away until cold. With this, mix one pint of thick 
cream and serve immediately. 

Rhuharh Jam. — Boil gently together for three hours 
an equal amount of granulated sugar and rhubarb, add- 
ing the juice and grated rind of one lemon for each 
pound of fruit. 

Rhuharh and Orange Preserve. — Peel six large, nice, 
thin-skinned oranges; take off all the white rinds, and 
slice them into the preserving kettle. Remove all seeds 
from the oranges. Cut half of the yellow rind into 
small pieces, and put with the orange pulp into the 
kettle. x\dd tw^o pounds of rhubarb stalks cut into small 
pieces, a teacupful of water and tliree and one-half cup- 



HOW TO USE RHUBARB. 67 

fills of sugar. Boil until the rliubarb is soft, and seal. 

Steamed Rliuharh. — Wash, peel, and cut the rhubarb 
into inch pieces. Put it into a granite double boiler, add 
one cup of sugar for a pint of fruit, and cook till the 
rhubarb is soft. Do not stir it. AMien tlie rhubarb is 
very sour, steam it without sugar until the juice flows, 
then drain it, add the sugar, and steam again till the 
sugar is dissolved. Or pour boiling water over it and 
let it -stand five minutes, then drain and steam. 

Spiced RJiuharh. — Sprinkle two and one-half pounds 
rhubarb peeled and sliced thin with one pound sugar. 
Let stand over niglit and in the morning drain off the 
syrup into a preserve kettle, add one cup sugar, one-half 
cup water and one half cup vinegar. Tie in small cheese- 
cloth l)ags one half teaspoon each of cloves, mace, all- 
spice and ginger and one teaspoon cinnamon; boil until 
the consistency of syrup, then add the rhubarb and cook 
until clear. This is a valuable addition to the winters 
stores.— [A. B. W. 

Rhuharl) and Gooseherries. — A pahitable preparation 
is made of half gooseberries and half rhubarb. Boil the 
rhubarb and gooseberries with a very little water; when 
soft, strain through a sieve, rubbing as much through as 
possible. Eeturn to the fire and boil until it looks clear 
and begins to thicken. This will depend upon the state 
of the fruit. If the gooseberries are partly ripe it does 
not require so long boiling as it does when the fruit is 
riper and has more juice. Now add the sugar, equal 
weight with fruit weighed before boiling, and boil 15 
minutes longer. Pour into bowls or glasses and when 
cold cover with paper. This is very clear and sparkling 
and has an excellent flavor. When cold it will turn 
out like jelly and may be cut in slices. It makes nice 
sandwiches for children. — [P^leanor M. Lucas. 



68 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

RJiuharh Co)ii[Jote. — Two poiuuls rliubai'b all prc- 
jDarecl, one and one-half cups sugar, lemon peel, one pint 
of water. 

Rhuba7'l} Tart. — To one quart of stewed rhubarb 
add three-fourth pounds of granulated sugar, five eggs, 
five ounces of pulverized crackers, after the rhubarb 
is stewed put through a sieve. The other ingredients 
should be mixed well. Use onh^ a bottom crust and bake 
three-quarters of an hour. 

Ehuharh Sherbet. — This is a pleasant, acid drink 
for warm weather. Wash the stalks and cut into inch 
pieces without skinning. Measure, and to one quart 
put an equal amount of water. Simmer until very 
tender. Add the grated rind of one lemon and three 
tablespoons sugar, stirring until the latter is dissolved. 
Cool and strain. Then chill on ice before serving. 

Kansas Lemonade. — Put a little juice of stewed pie- 
plant into a glass of cold water, sweeten to taste and 
flavor with lemon. 

Rhuharh Wine. — Peel, chop fine and mash the pie- 
plant to a pulp. Weigh and allow one quart water and 
one pound sugar to each pound of fruit. JMix well and 
turn into an earthen receptacle, where it should be cover- 
ed with a cloth and stand until it ferments, being stirred 
daily. When fermentation ceases, skim and strain, pour 
into a cask and let stand open for 24 hours. Then close 
the bunghole and keep for four months, when it can be 
racked off into bottles which should be closely sealed 
and put away on their sides. 

RJiuharh Vinegar. — Wash and cut the rhubarb into 
inch pieces wnthout peeling. Pound with a wooden 
potato beetle; measure and put in a large stone jar. 
To each quart allow one pint wafer. Cover with cheese- 
cloth and let stand in a warm room for 10 days, stirring 



HOW TO ITRE EHUBARB. 69 

twice a day. Strain through cheesecloth, measure and 
return to the jar. Allow one cup sugar to each Cjuart of 
liquid. Add a few spoonfuls water, dissolve over the fire, 
cool and add to the contents of the jar. Cover again 
with the cloth and let stand as before until it is a good 
strong vinegar, then bottle. 

END OF PART ONE. 



PART 11. 



CHAPTER I. 

VARIOUS FORCINa METHODS. 

Some growers near Boston and New York have rhu- 
barb beds especially for forcing under glass without 
transplanting. They are set closer than for field cul- 
ture say two feet or 2 x 3 feet apart, the rows being 
short and numerous thus giving the bed of rhubarb the 
shape of an ordinary rectangular greenhouse, averaging 
say 20 x 75 feet. At the side of this bed a skeleton frame 
is erected, as for the ordinary sash house. Then when 
desired to force the crop, say any time from December 
to February, the space is covered witli liotbed sashes, 
the sides being boarded up and Ijanked around with 
manure. 

Sometimes steam pipes are run into the rhubarb 
house, and the house then becomes like a greenhouse in 
conditions, forcing the crop rapidly. The heat of the 
sun alone and that of the manure piled around the out- 
side hastens the crop greatly. The snow quickly melts 
away. Sometimes the sides of the house are covered with 
building paper. As soon as the weather becomes warm 
the sash aud frame are removed and the plants given 
ordinary field culture. By this plan the crop is forced 
without disturbing or injuring the plants which are 
already in place for the following season, and summer 
culture is made very easy and simple. When sashes are 
not wanted for the rhubarb house, they can be used on 
hotbeds. Much of the very early native crop around large 
eastern cities comes from cold frames and forcing houses 
built according to tbe plan just described. 



74 



THE NEW RHUBARB fTTETURE. 



The more modern of these houses liave an even-span 
roof, two or more rows of sash on a side. The hoard 
sides are three to four feet high, and the ridge six to 
eight feet high, giving snfficient pitch to the sash roof. 
Sashes are held in place hy screw holts, and ahout one- 




LoNG Island Sash House. 

third of the sashes on the npper rows on each side of the 
house are hinged at the npper end to allow them to 
be raised for ventilation. The ridge where the sashes 
come together at the top may he protected with roofing 
paper, and weather strips at the sides of the sashes will 
save heat. 



VARIOUS FORCINa METHODS. 



75 



A somewhat diri'ercnt style is common on the farm 
gardens of New Jersey and Long Island. One of these 
at Flnshing, L. I., is shown in the ilhistration. The 
sides of hoard are only two feet high, but working space 
is secured inside by means of a sunken walk through the 
middle, thus dividing the interior into two beds extend- 
ing lengthwise. These beds are a foot lower than the 
ground outside. There are two rows of sash on a side. 
The frame is nicely beveled to receive the sash, and the 
















Hot Water Forcing House. 

ridge is protected by a permanent board covering. Koots 
are taken up and packed closely, as in cold frames. 
No artificial heat is usually considered necessary. 

Hot ^NaUr System. — On the market garden farm 
of Edward Farmer in the Boston district is a large 
sash house, resembling an enlarged cold frame, but sup- 
plied with extra heat by means of hot water pipes. 
The house is about 260 feet long and divided crosswise 
into halves by a board partition. Each half is forced 
once in two years, thus allowing a full season's growth to 



76 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

gain strength after the process. By this phin the plants 
have retained their vigor for six or seven years, if the 
hills are kept down ])y dividing; but must be renewed or 
replaced at the end of that period. Plants are set 2 x 3 
feet, being forced where they grow. 

A section of the interior is shown in the illustration 
herewith. The building is about 30 feet wide. The 
roof pitches enough to run most of the water off the 
sashes, but if some leaks inside the crop is not harmed. 
Each side of the roof is four sashes wide. The sides 
of the building are of inch board the upper two-thirds 
protected with felting paper. .The banking of manure 
covers the lower third of the sides and is applied at 
the time the sashes are put on. The heater is one of 
the kind often used for heating dwellings. It cost 
$50 without the piping. The heating pipe runs the 
length of the building about three feet high, and the 
return pipes are close to the sides of the building near 
the ground. The box-like structure in the picture is a 
wooden covering for the heater. 

No attempt is made to secure ordinary greenhouse 
conditions. Sometimes in very cold weather the tem- 
perature goes away down, and the heater scarcely keeps 
its pipes from freezing. But even if the leaves of the 
hardy plant are stiffened with the frost, no permanent 
harm is done. There are no pests or diseases in tlie 
forcing house and the crop is regarded as a sure one. 
It brings from eight to 15 cents per pound in the Boston 
market. A very interesting feature of the house just 
described is the way in which an extra crop is secured, 
at slight cost. In September, two rows of dandelions are 
transplanted between the rows of rhubarb as in the 
illustration, the plants being obtained from a field out- 
side. These are of a cultivated varietv. When heat is 



VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 



77 



applied, the dandelions start in about four weeks and 
are out of the way before the rhubarb needs the room. 
The rhubarb is allowed to grow until it is well matured 
and is picked only once, but the single picking is a 
thoroup-h one. The cron occuiues the house from De- 




HoT Watkk Forcing House (Interior View). 

comber to March, after which period the glass is taken 
olf and used for other crops. Several other growers 
use practically the methods just described, some having 
steam heat in place of hot water, and running a pipe 
into the rhubarb house from an adjoining greenhouse. 
Cold Frames.— The common plan for forcing with- 



78 THE NEW KHUBARB CULTURE. 

out artifieicil heat is ])y tliu use of cold frauies made 
rather deeper than ordinary, to allow full growth of the 
stalks. Some cold frames are sunken pits, two feet deep 
and covered with sashes. But the usual way is to 
inclose with hoards a patch of rhuharh thickly planted, 
and co\er it with sash at the proper season, usually in 
Deeemher. The only heat supplied is that of the sun 
retained hy the glass, and that afforded by a mixture of 
manure aud earth, banked up against the sides. Some 
growers cover the plants Avith 18 inches of litter or 
coarse manure during cold weather, also putting on the 
sash and straw mats or wooden shutters, the object being 
to keep the soil in the frames from freezing deeply. The 
covering is raked off as soon as the coldest weather is 
past. Most grovv^ers use no protection other than the 
fflass. 

The care of cold frames for this hardy plant is so 
simple and easy that a beginner will have no trouble. 
A little veutilation must be given on warm days, by 
raising the sash slightly. Watering with a solution of 
nitrate of soda, a teaspoonful to a pail of water will 
help force the growth. Not much water is needed and 
many do not water at all. A ])oard shutter, like the one 
illustrated, put over each sash on cold nights will prove 
a help, but the shutter is not an essential for rhubarb, 
as a freeze does not permanently injure the plants. Stir 
the soil with a lioe aud pull the weeds. 

The illustration shows a good specimen of a double- 
sash rhubarb frame without lieat other than that sup- 
plied by banking up with manure on the outside. For 
this purpose the rliubarb is set 2 x 3 feet, and the frame 
is put on without moviug the plants. Two rows of 
sash cover the frame aud are put on the last of Decem- 
ber, and the sides are 1)auked at the same time. This 



VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 79 

particular frame belongs to the great Ilawson green- 
house plant near Boston, Mass. The sides are of two 
inch plank, two feet high, and the sash supports are 
of 2 X 4 inch joists. The rhubarb is picked moderately 
two or three times a season, and does not seem to be 



W. W. Rawson-'s Cold Frames fok Rhubarb. 

weakened much by the process. The variety is the 
Linnffius. The location is at the south side of other 
buildings, thus securing protection from the cold winds. 
Such a location is a very important aid to earliness. 
Where there is no room for the forcing patch south of 
other buildings, it will pay to erect a board fence for 




Long Island Cold Frame, 




VAKIOUS FOECINCt METHODS. 81 

a shelter. For cold frames, Linngeus is usually consider- 
ed the most satisfactor}^ variety. The j^lan just describ- 
ed, where a j^lot is inclosed and forced where it grows 
in the field, represents the common practice in the 
Northeast. In the gardening districts around j^ew York 
and Philadelphia, the roots are often dug up and packed 
side by side in the frames, tilling the spaces with earth. 
The practice saves space but makes more labor and 
causes greater injury to the roots. 

One of the Long Island cold frames for single rows 
of sashes is also illustrated, being shown without the 
glass, as in summer and fall. The sides, two feet high, 
are of inch board supported on edge by small stakes 
driven close to the board. The alley between the string 
of frames is two feet wide. During summer the sashes 
are removed and piled, the ends of the string of frames 
are removed and the ground kept in cultivation by horse 
power. A^ery little hand work is needed with this crop. 
jSTo crossbars are used. By having one side about six 
inches lower than the other, the fall will be sufficient 
to carry off the water, but for a hardy plant like rhubarb, 
leakage is not considered of much consequence. The 
roots are transplanted and are packed in the frames the 
last of December. 

The method of making hotbeds for rhubarb is very 
similar, but rather more care is taken to preserve heat, 
and by the method described in Part First, Chapter II., 
no glass is required. The cold frames, having no manure 
to supply heat and depending wholly on the heat of the 
sun, cannot be used to force a winter crop, but will bring 
the spring crop a week or two earlier than the outdoor 
grown, and will produce equal weight in yield as com- 
pared with hotbeds. The method of forcing rhubarb 



82 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

under greenhouse benches is described in l*art First, 
Chapter JI. 

One grower near Boston estimates the yield of rhu- 
barb under glass at 20 pounds per sash, worth at five 
cents per pound, $1. The distance here was 2x2 feet. 
The crop grew in about five weeks, after which the glass 
was removed and used over radish hotbeds. Steam was 
used to force this crop, the roots remaining in the ground 
throughout the year. 

Steam Forcing in Open Fields. — Winter forcing in 
the open field has been found practicable, the soil being 
heated with steam or hot water introduced through 
underground tunnels. European gardeners sometimes 
construct permanent tunnels of brick between the rows, 
and heat the plant beds with hot water through pipes 
laid in these tunnels. A less expensive plan of field 
forcing has been successfully tried at the Missouri ex- 
periment station; asparagus being grown from 1896 to 
1899, while during the season of 1900-1901, the rhubarb 
crop was treated in ])recisely the same manner and witli 
every indication that the results would be equally favor- 
able. 

The idea of this method is to avoid the expense of 
piping or other construction, by blowing hot steam into 
board tunnels between the rows. Trenches were first 
made between the rows, wliich are four feet apart. They 
were opened with a plow, going once through and back 
again, and were made uniform by means of a spade. 
These trenches were then covered with 12-inch boards, 
which rested on four inch blocks, placed at frequent in- 
tervals along either side of the trenches. This formed 
tunnels between the rows for conducting the steam. To 
guard against the steam's escaping, two or three inches 
of soil was placed over the boards, and the plot was then 



VARIOUS FOKCING METHODS. 83 

covered with five or six inches of horse manure, l^his 
covering was to prevent the heat from escaping from 
the soil too rapidly. It was then ready for the steam 
to be turned into the tunnels. In the illustration one 
of the tunnels has been uncovered to show its construc- 
tion. 

To conduct the steam a one and one half inch pipe 
was carried above ground from the boiler to one end 
of the central tunnel, a distance of 185 feet. A steam 
hose long enough to reach each tunnel was attached 
to this pipe through which to blow steam into the 
tunnels. It was not the idea to give a constant su})ply 
of steam, but to discharge a little into the tunnels each 
afternoon, or as often as was necessary to maintain 
sufficient warmth. A piece of tile was inserted into the 
mouth of each tunnel to prevent the discharging steam 
from tearing awa^^ the eartli. 

The first steam was turned into the tunnels on 
N^ovember 14. Steam was discharged into each tunnel, 
not to exceed five minutes at a time, in order not to heat 
the earth too hot in any single place. It required about 
one hour of steaming the first day to bring the bed up 
to the required temperature of 60 degrees. The dis- 
tribution of heat throughout the bed was very uniform 
and satisfactory. The moist steam seemed to permeate 
the soil equally in all directions. 

After the first day, very little steaming was neces- 
sary until the crop began to be produced. ' On an average 
the bed was steamed about twice in three days and then 
only for about five minutes for eacb tunnel. The soil 
and horse manure mulch seemed to hold the heat very 
well, the frequent steamings keeping up fermentation 
in the nudch. 

The first picking was made in ten days. Wlien steam 
was not turned on until tlie last of December, the crop 
was not ready uuiil the middle of January. The results 
are thus summarized by Horticulturist Whitten : — 

The steam, coming in direct contact with the soil, 



84 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 




VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 85 

readily penetrates it, heating the whole bed uniformly; 
whereas if the tunnels are heated by inclosed steam or 
hot water pipes, the soil becomes too hot and dry close 
to the tnnnels while it is too cold midway between them. 
Forcing steam into the timnels keeps the soil moist and 
maintains more continuous fermentation of the manure 
mulch, thus promoting steady heat. 

The crop produced in this way was larger, of finer 
quality, and the bed produced longer, than that forced by 
any other method tried. The plants thus forced recuper- 
ate by being allowed to grow one summer without cut- 
ting, while plants transplanted for forcing are ruined 
by the process. 

The amount of soft coal used to force a plot 25 x 25 
feet, in this way, from December 29 to February 25 (58 
days), was 2,308 pounds, costing $1.82, or an average of 
39 pounds daily. During these 58 days, steam was turn- 
ed into the six tunnels of this plot a total of 161/4 hours, 
equivalent to 17 minutes daily, or less than three minutes 
daily for each tunnel. The forced asparagus yielded, 
during the 58 days, at the rate of 9,882 bunches, or 
4,880 pounds per acre. The yield of rhubarb has not 
been stated. About five minutes at a time is as long 
as steam can be forced into a tunnel without danger of 
overheating the plants. 

Forcing the crops where they can be grow^n in the 
field, has a twofold advantage; saving the trouble and 
cost of transplanting, and avoiding the injury done 
to the plants by transplanting. 

Exhausting steam into the bed, instead of returning 
it to the boiler in an inclosed circuit, would, at first, 
seem to be a wasteful process of heating. Experiment 
showed, however, that the circumstances justified this 
method. Heating a bed of this kind by a circuit of steam 
pipes or hot water pipes is very unsatisfactory. The 
heat from pipes very soon dries out the soil around the 
tunnels, destroying its power to conduct heat. In this 
way the bed becomes too hot and dry adjacent to the 
tunnels, and too cold a short distance from them. It 
also becomes necessary to maintain heat in the pipes 
a good part of the time. 



S6 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

By blowing steam dircetly into the tunnels the soil 
is kept moist; the steam has a penetrating effect, and 
permeates all parts of the bed, giving a uniform heat 
throughout: this moist steam keeps up a continual fer- 
mentation of the manure mulch, thus giving heat and 
only occasional brief steamings are necessary. Care must 
1)0 taken not to use too much steam at one time, or tlie 
])lants may be ruined 1)y over heating. Our rows were 
four feet apart, the tunnels midway between tliem were 
only eight inches wide, and yet we found that five 
minutes at a time was as long as was safe to force 
steam into a single tunnel. 

These experiments have been so successful as to in- 
dicate that anyone provided with a steam heating plant 
could successfully force asparagus or rhubarb for the 
markets in this manner. To still further test forcing 
by steam, in the open field, we are now growing a field 
in which four inch drain tiles have been placed one foot 
below the surface, in such a way that we expect to use 
them for under-drainage, for sub-irrigation and for 
steaming tlie crop for winter forcing. 

Exhihifion Stalks. — When it is desired to grow espe- 
cially large stalks of rhubarb for a choice trade or for 
exhibition purposes, it is possible to increase the natural 
size by thinning out all but the vigorous center buds, 
simply cutting them off with a sharp spade, allowing the 
whole strength of the roots to go to the large, vigorous 
lookino- buds, of which not more than one or two should 
be allowed to develop. To stimulate the hill to its ut- 
most, set a large flower pot into the ground between the 
hills, in the row, as in the accompanying illustration, and 
fill it often with liquid manure of v/hich too much can- 
not be given. A good substitute for liquid manure is 
nitrate of soda dissolved in water, using about a tea- 
spoonful of the soda to two or three quarts of water. 
Varieties like the Mammoth treated by this plan will 
grow stalks of enormous size and attract much attention 



VARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 



87 



at the local ngrieiiltural fairs and })rove a splendid ad- 
vertisement for the grower. 

A Good Plan for forcing in the early spring although 
somewhat more expensive than the one of heaping up 
earth, is by use of frames made by driving stakes into 
the ground each side of the row between every pair of 
hills. These project three feet above ground, and leave 
two feet between the opposite rows of stakes. Slant the 
stakes one way a little so that they are only 15 inches 
apart at top. Fasten the laths to the top of the stakes, 




Forcing with Liquid Manure. 



and also along the sides. Then cover the frame all over 
with fresh, strawy stable manure, making a layer about 
one and one-half feet thick. Inside the frame the temper- 
ature will be quite high, sometimes 60 degrees or more. 
If it rises too high, holes may be made through the top of 
the frame for ventilation. This plan will force the rhu- 
barb almost as well as a hotbed and does not require 
transplanting the plants. It does not permanently weak- 
en the plants as it does to put them in greenhouse fore- 



88 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

iiig beds. Tlie growth of tlie plant may be considerably 
hastened by a sini])le covering six inches deep of light, 
strawy manure, taking care not to cover them so deeply 
as to cause the plants to decay. It sometimes happens 
that a gain of a few days in supplying the local market 
will increase the total receipts from the rhubarb planta- 
tion l)y one-third. The price will sometimes drop within 
a week from 10 cents per pound at retail to three or 
four cents, and all the profit is made l)y the man who 
gets the toj) prices. In city markets the difference be- 
tween the very early prices and those a little later is 
not so pronounced on account of competition of green- 
house and southern rhubarb. But in many of the smaller 
cities, the supply is entirely from outdoor growth, and 
the earliest stalks are bought eagerly and at a high price. 

A Plan of Forcing sometimes practiced is to trans- 
plant the hills into large deep pots, the space around 
the roots being fdled up with sandy loam and the pot 
set in the cellar where the temperature can be raised 
sufficiently to start vegetation. As soon as the heat 
is applied the plants will begin to start, each pot will 
produce two or three cuttings. After the third cutting 
the roots may be taken up and replanted where they 
will begin growing again without having suffered very 
serious injury in the process. If there is a sufficient 
supply of roots dug the pots can be refilled and another 
early crop grown. 

A Practical Way to blanch stalks in spring is to throw 
up the soil with a plow about a foot thick over the 
hill. Nearly the whole stalk will then be blanched and 
more delicate in color and flavor. This covering of 
earth must be leveled down when the cutting ceases. 
Keeping up the leveling process will dispose of most of 
the w^eds. The leaves after cutting, if spread on the 



TARIOUS FORCING METHODS. 89 

earth about the hills, will also assist greatly in smother- 
ing the weeds, besides having considerable fertilizing 
value and acting as a partial mulch. 

It is customary with many gardeners to place head- 
less barrels or boxes over the hills in spring in order 
to force an extra growth of stalk. By this plan the 
stalks shoot up long and slender but do not weigh more 
than if left to grow in their natural manner. They 
are rather more tender than stalks not forced, but the 
process somewhat weakens the hill, and it is on the 
whole not profitable. 

Portable Forcing House. — In his forcing book. Pro- 
fessor Bailey describes a unique plan for open field forc- 
ing by installing a system of surface steam pipes to be 
covered with a movable roof of muslin. In spring the 
cloth roof is removed. 



CHAPTER II. 

EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 

As a farm or market garden crop, rhubarb is grown 
in large tracts near many of the principal cities of the 
United States. Methods everywhere are quite similar. 




Rhubarb Field in Jamaica, L. I. 



Immense quantities are brought to the markets of 
Greater New York by New Jersey and Long Island 



farm gardeners. 



One of the most extensive growers is 



EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTUiiE. ^1 

Abram A^an Sicklen of Jamaica, L. I., who devotes about 
12 acres to the crop besides 300 sash for cold forcing. 
One of his main fiekls appears in the illustration. 

The plan of management is as simple and inex- 
pensive as possible. Plants obtained by division of old 
hills are set -ii/o x 2 i/o feet. The soil is light clay loam 
and is well manured before plowing. Cultivation l)egins 
early in spring, is repeated as often as the ground gets 
hard or weeds appear, and continued until plants begin 
to die down in autumn. Manure is plowed in each fall 
and sometimes a dose of ready mixed commercial ferti- 
lizer is applied iu the spring. Stalks are pulled only 
once each season, but the harvesting is quite thorough, 
all the large stalks being removed. The crop is marketed 
just as pulled, leaves on, and stalks tied in bunches of 
two or three pounds. These bunches are packed on 
" market wagons as closely as possible and carted 10 or 12 
miles to market. Mr. Van Sicklen estimates the yield 
at 10 tons per acre in favorable seasons. He does not 
consider the outdoor crop very profitable on account of 
low prices in recent years. When the market is oversup- 
plied, the surplus must be sold to canners at almost give- 
away prices. The variety grown on the Van Sicklen 
farm is the Victoria, which although later than the 
Linnseus is of better size and appearance, and as soon as 
it enters the market the smaller kind is crowded out. 
Canners wdll not usually buy the Linnaus. Growers who 
have extra early land find it nevertheless profitable, be- 
cause it reaches the market several days before the Vic- 
toria. 

Four acres of Mr. Van Sicklen's 12-acre tract are 
devoted to growing plants for the cold frames. After 
once forcing, these plants are usually thrown away as 
worthless. Hence new plants must be started every 



92 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

year in order to have enough mature phmts ready for 
forcing and to renew the outdoor plantations which are 
plowed up every three or four years, or as soon as the 
stalks get too small for bunching, and a new plantation 
is set on fresh land. The cold frames are of a common 
style except that the sides are fully two and ono-half 
feet high to allow for growth of the rhubarb stalk. They 
are illustrated on page 80. Two-year-old plants are 
packed into frames as closely as possible and the spaces 
fdled with earth and manure. Sashes are put on early 
in February and the crop gets to market well ahead of 
the field-grown i^roduct. It is marketed in the same 
way as the open-air crop, but with more care in cleaning 
and bunching. 

For the Washington Market. — The most southern 
district in which rhubarb is grown in large acreage, is 
the market gardening section of Maryland, supplying the 
city of Washington. Many of the gardeners raise from 
one to three acres, and the aggregate is large. The plant 
seems to thrive, and there is always a surplus of the 
product for early shipment to the various northern cities. 
By using hothouses, hotbeds and cold frames, assisted 
by the warm climate, some of the growers obtain a very 
early and profitable crop. 

A leading grower of this section, Mr. Elias B. Eowell, 
writes: "A well drained but moist loam seems to suit 
rhubarb the best. The plant will be killed by standing 
water, but having a rank hal)it of growth it requires an 
abundance of moisture. 

^'The early rhubarb sells the highest. Hence a south- 
ern exposure and protection from north and Avest winds 
are desirable. The people in this neighborhood are mar- 
ket gardeners and small truckers growing quite a variety 
of crops. Hence there are no very large fields of rhubarb 



EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 93 

here, three acres would be about the limit for any one 
grower. There is but one variety grown in this section, 
the Linnaeus. 

"Rhuljarb is usually planted about 3x3 feet, the sets 
being made by subdividing the old hills. About the time 
the rhubarb begins to start in the spring the hills are 
covered with fresh manure to induce earliness. I sell 
my rhubarb in Washington, but a large part of the 
crop is shipped by dealers to places further north. Very 
little rhubarb is sent here from the south, our early 
market being supplied by rhubarb grown in hothouses, 
hotbeds, cold frames, etc. 

"The crop is a profitable one on soil that is adapted to 
it. For outdoor rhubarb the price ranges from five cents 
to two cents per bunch of four or five stalks, the size and 
length increasing as the price decreases." 

A Veteran Rhubarh Grower in the Boston market 
gardening district, Mr. M. Sullivan of Eevere, kindly 
supplies the following account which fairly represents 
the methods employed in that section : — 

"I would select a location open and free of trees, 
south or southeast aspect, having a deep, rich soil. Open 
deep furrows with the plow four feet apart, shoveling out 
all loose soil down to hardpan. Fill one-half of the open 
furrow with the best well rotted stable manure in 
which set the roots two eyes to a piece. Cover with the 
hoe or a very light furrow with a one-horse plow, the 
plants to be three feet apart in the row. The varieties 
most cultivated are the Linn^us and Victoria. The first 
named is about two weeks earlier than the other, and it 
is yet an open question as to which is more profitable. 

"The time of planting considered best hy market 
gardeners is just after the spring crop is gathered; this 
would be in July and August. The first season, keep 



94 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

the ground stirrcMl and free from weeds, and in tlie fall 
apply a liberal quantity of stable manure placed directly 
on top of each plant. The second year in the spring 
the ground is plowed between the rows and the manure 
on top of the rows forked under. 

"No cropping should be allowed the second year after 
planting, but the ground kept well cultivated and free 
from weeds. 

"In the fall a heavy dressing of manure should be 
spread all over the planting and this plowed up towards 
the rows. The third year from planting an early forking 
up of the soil about the plants will help forward them, 
and one or two strippings for market may be made. The 
plantation is then made and is good for from six to ten 
years according to care and cultivation. It would be 
fair to estimate the average annual value of the crop 
at $200 per acre. 

"The preparation for market is simply to remove the 
leaf down to about two inches of the stalk, and pack in 
boxes or tie in bundles of 20 to 30 pounds. Weighing 
should be done at time of loading and tags attached or 
the weight numbered on boxes, preparing in this way for 
instant delivery." 

Cliat Oil Rhubarb. — On the Squire estate near Boston 
is a one-acre patch of rhubarb which produced large 
and paying crops for many years. "How large a crop 
do you get?" was the question asked of Foreman Con- 
nell. 

"From eight to 10 tons, so far this year, from this 
field of one acre," was the reply, "and we shall keep on 
picking for a month longer. We picked three rows this 
morning and sent in 4,600 pounds. We go over about 
one-third of the patch every other day, so that the whole 
field is gone over about once a week." 



EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 95 

"What are the prices?" 

"A cent and a-half to-day (May 15). The first piclv- 
ing was sold at four cents, which was a lower figure 
than usual at the start. The western rhubarb keeps the 
price down this year. Usually it does n^t go below one 
cent, but I should not be surprised if it should drop to 
50 cents a hundred this season." 

"What is the variety?" 

"The Victoria. That is the largest and best." 

"How do you gather it ?" 

"We have one man go between the rows, pulling two 
rows at a time. Others follow and cut off the leaves, 
clean the stems and pack in barrel 1)0xes. At the work- 
room the rhubarb is tied in bundles of 25 or 30 pounds 
each." 

"How is the rhubarb cultivated ?" 

"There is mt much work to it. The Ijig leaves shade 
the ground and smother the weeds. The hills are set 
4x4 feet, but we only cultivate one way. We begin after 
picking time and cultivate a few times before autumn, 
when we apply about 13 cords of horse manure per acre 
broadcast and cultivated into the soil. Then in the 
spring we cultivate again. That is all." 

Methods in Illinois.— The earliest field grown rhu- 
barb reaching northern markets, excepting a few ship- 
ments from the Pacific coast, comes via Chicago from 
the extensive growers of southern Illinois. These ship- 
ments have for the past dozen years skimmed the cream 
of high prices, and the growing competition is severely 
felt by eastern producers. The Illinois district is near 
the southern limit of the greatest vigor of the rhubarb 
plant, and is favored witli sunny skies and early soil. 
The methods are not essentially different from those of 
other sections, as may he seen from the following account 



96 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 



of the management of James Bell's large field in Union 
Co., Illinois : — 

"I have about 20 acres of pie plant under cultivation. 
I do not know what varieties they are as the first I 
planted I got the roots from a farmer here and have 
never made any test as to variety. At the present time 




Rhubarb Ready for New York Market. 

1 am raising live stock and get the manure from them to 
fertilize with and believe that is the best plan. The 
manure is spread over the ground, but not on the hills, 
in the fall and turned under. 

'The plants are set four feet apart each way, and 
about four inches deep. I try to keep them free from all 



EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 



97 



grass and weeds by running a double shovel twice each 
wa}^ through the rows live or six times during the season 
after pulling for market. No irrigation is needed here. 
I do not try to force but where possible plant on a 
slope toward the south. To gather the crop the pullers 




Rhubarb in Field Culture. 



go first pulling two rows, laying the stalks in the middle 
between the rows. The trimmers come after them cut- 
ting off the leaves and placing the stalks in boxes. These 
boxes are carried to a bench and are there packed for 
shipment in a 50-pound package which I manufacture, 



98 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

22 inches long, having two heads, each 12 inches square. 
The price in Chicago market hegins at six cents and 
gets as low as one cent per pound." 

A Wisconsin Specialist. — In the region about the 
great lakes are many rhubarb specialists, who devote 
large areas to the crop, and ship much of the product 
south and east to the large cities. The business of 
winter forcing elsewhere described in this volume, has 
reached great development in the section to which allu- 
sion has been made. One of the most extensive growers 
of the open-air crop is Mr. F. S. Thompson, of Wiscon- 
sin, whose annual yield of 100 tous or more requires 
10 to 15 acres devoted to the plant in various stages 
of growth. His methods may be summarized as fol- 
lows : — 

A black, sandy loam is preferred. If sod land is 
used it is worked one season before setting to rhubarb. 
In the spring the surface is heavily manured, then the 
land is plowed deep and well liarrowed, leveled with a 
drag, rolled, and the rows marked. Ashes, bone meal, 
or hen manure are sometimes added as an extra dressing 
when available. Plants, usually obtained by division 
of old roots, are set 4 x 4 or 4 x 5 feet, according to the 
variety of rhubarb. Every ninth row is left unplanted 
to allow a driveway for teams in tending and harvesting 
the crop. Holes for planting are made with a spade. 
Several shovelfuls of manure are put in with each 
plant. The plants are set crowns level with the ground. 
Stalks are not pulled from new beds until the third 
season. 

During the season the cultivator is run often enough 
to keep down the weeds. Late in the fall, any remain- 
ing weeds are pulled up and carried away, also the leaves 
and refuse, to prevent frost being held by them in the 



EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 



99 



spring. But if leaves are not very numerous they are 
allowed to remain. Finally, a furrow is plowed close 
beside each row on one side only as in the illustration. 




Method of Ridging in Fall and Spring. 

and in such a way that the ridge is left facing the south. 
That is to say, the furrow is made on the sunny side of 
the row, the idea being that the exposure brings out 
the frost more quickly in the spring. 



L«rC: 



100 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 



These furrows are half filled with coarse manure 
the following spring and the ridge of earth near the 
plants turned hack, covering the manure and leaving 
another small furrow very close to the hills. This second 
furrow is partly filled with manure, and finally the whole 
surface is leveled off with a fork or pronged hoe, at 
the same time taking pains to stir all the soil about the 




Ridged Bed in Wintek. 

hills. The application takes 25 to 50 loads of manure 
per year per acre. 

The first stalks are pulled when not over six inches 
high. The help are instructed to grasp the stalk near 
the lower end, and to avoid breakage the pullings are 
left in the sun unfil slightly Avilted, thus making such 
kinds as the Victoria less brittle. The stalks are carted 
to the packing house, where the root ends are cleaned 



EXPERIENCE IN FIELD CULTURE. 101 

and the leaves clipped within less than an inch of the 
stalk, if meant for distant marlvet, but for local trade 
the leaves are left on. Bunches are made up of from two 
to five stalks, according to size of stalks, tied with twine, 
and carted to market or crated and shipped. 

This grower trims old, overgrown roots with a plow, 
simply gouging off a portion of the hills when they 
become overgrown. The part torn off by the plow in 
this way is of little use for transplanting, and does not 
leave the hill in such good condition as when the work 
is done with a spade. But for large fields the plow 
method is a great time saver. From the parts torn off 
by the plow, many plants can be picked out which will 
answer for transplanting, although most of them are 
too ragged in appearance for anything but home use. 
Unless the hills are trimmed in some way the stalks grow 
smaller year by year, until in five or six seasons they 
are not large enough for market. 

On this farm the favorite variety is the Eed Mam- 
moth, because of its large size, red color and great yield. 
Mr. Thompson estimates the product of an acre of this 
variety at over 3.000 dozen bunches per year, worth in 
the Milwaukee market on the average between $500 and 
$600. He estimates for one acre the average yearly 
expense, taking a term of twenty years, at about $150 
per year. When growing rhubarb in hotbeds, he counts 
on $10 to $15 per sash of conmion size. 

On the Pacific Coast the rhubarb crop succeeds un- 
der irrigation or in the cool, moist climate of the regions 
near the sea. In California there are large growers who 
supply the local markets and who also ship large quanti- 
ties overland to the cities of the eastern and central 
states. In the state of Washington the cultivation of 
rhubarb has hardly passed the experimental stage, but 



102 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

some at least of the standard varieties have been sliown 
to succeed. Both in Washington aiid Oregon tlie Chi- 
nese gardeners have siipi)lied a good share of the market 
product; in fact the largest growers in Oregon are 
Chinamen. The yellow gardeners manure highly and 
cultivate thoroughly, which are the two main essentials 
in field culture, and the plant thrives luxuriantly under 
their care. The horticulturist and gardener of the 
Oregon experiment farm, George Coote of Corvallis, 
describes his method of cultivation as follows : — 

"Before planting out, I have the soil deeply plowed 
up two furrows deep; this is done by plowing the first 
furrow deep, and following in the same furrow, thus 
getting a depth of 15 or ](> inches. Then I place well 
rotted manure in the bottom of the furrow, and with 
the hoe I pull in about six inches of soil over the manure. 
This done, I pJant every five feet in the row. I find 
that the plants make a much better growth when treated 
in the manner described, as it enables the roots to 
penetrate the soil, and the growth is much better than in 
shallow soil. The varieties grown here are the Victoria 
for early and the Giant for late. 

"I have relied on barnyard manure only, digging it in 
around the plants in the late fall. In early spring I 
have used the liquid from the stable, diluting one-half 
with water, and placing it in a small trench around the 
plant and letting it soak down the roots. This treatment 
I find helps the growth wonderfully. My method is not 
to pull the plants every year, as they soon run out. I 
find by giving them a rest every other year the strength 
is kept up. I pull every other plant this year and give it 
a rest the next. Constantly pulling weakens the plant 
to such an extent that in three or four years it is fit 
for nothing.^' 



CHAPTER III. 

VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. 

Several of tlie standard kinds are briefly noticed at 
tlie conclusion of Part I, Chapter ITT. The ordinary 
varieties succeed in all parts of the country except in 
the extreme south, wliere drought and continued hot 
weather prove unfavorable ; the plants shoot up to seed, 
and, unless favorably situated, soon die out. In the 
eastern states the kinds mostly grown are Ijinnagus for 
early and Victoria for late. Other kinds are reported 
tried only in an experimental way. In the South these 
two standard sorts appear to have been the only ones 
publicly tested. 

The same varieties constitute the great bulk of rhu- 
barb shipments made by the extensive growers' of the 
central western states to eastern markets, although the 
larger kinds have lately been meeting with some favor. 
The rhubarb specialists of Wisconsin and the Xorthwest 
also depend largely on the older standard kinds, both for 
outdoor crop and for winter forcing. Some specialists 
here, however, prefer for main crop the large, late variety 
known as Stott's Mammoth, Mammoth Red, and under 
various other titles. This kind is distinct from the 
Mammoth Green, and shows good color, either outdoors 
or in forcing pits. 

Linnaeus. — The standard for earliness is LinnaBUS. 
It has fme, bright color, thin, tender skin which does not 
need to be removed in cooking. The flavor and appear- 
ance of the cooked product is unsurpassed. Most im- 
portant of all, it is the earliest of the standard kinds. Its 



104 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 



weak point is the comparatively small size of the stalks^, 
and the smaller yield. It reaches market nearly a week 
earlier than A^ictoria, and is therefore tlic iiioi-c profitaljle 




Stalks of Linn.i;us. 
for growers whose main profit comes from early sales. 
On account of its inferior size, it does not sell readily 
after the large kinds get to market, and is not usually 




Stalks ok Victoria. 

wanted by canners, who, like the general public, appear 
to judge rhubarb by the size alone. 

Victoria. — The standard for the mid-season crop is 



VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. 105 

the old Victoria. It is about a week later than Linnseus 
and about a week earlier than the mannnoth varieties. 
Stalks are large and of fine appearance. Their color is 
bright and clear, the filjer is crisp and tender, with 
plenty of juice, and the flavor is excellent. Most can- 
ners and wine-makers prefer it to all others. Both for 
market and for home use, it is grown far more commonly 
than any other variety. It produces less weight per 
acre than the mammoth kinds. Another weak point 




Bunch of Victoria Ready for Market. 

is its overabundant production of seed. Seed stalks are 
numerous throughout the season and must be removed as 
soon as they show or the plant becomes weakened. 

Mammoth Red or Stotfs Mammoth. — This variety 
is catalogued under several different names, but is com- 
monly known by the wholesale growers of the eastern, 
central, and northern states as the Mammoth Red, or 
simply as Mammoth. On the Pacific coast the same 
variety, or one very similar, is called The Giant. It 
is a tremendous cropper, growing four to five feet high, 



106 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

including leaves, in field culture and producing a great 
number of short, thick stalks to the hill. The color 
of tlie stalks is a deep red, whether grown outdoors 
or in the forcing house. The texture and flavor are not 
so fine as with the smaller and less rankly growing 
varieties, but the general appearance is so attractive 
that the Mammoth will crowd out the earlier and smaller 




Bunch of Majimoth Red. 



sorts as soon as it appears in the market. For winter 
forcing it is preferred by many growers to any other 
kind. It is a steady yielder throughout the season, and 
gives comparatively little trouble with the seed stalks. 

St. Mariins. — This variety is of English origin, and 
has been highly recommended, but practical tests do not 
seem to support its claims to favor. Introducers ascribed 
to it a delicious, nutty or spicy flavor, but the Ontario 
experiment station considered its quality poor, and stalks 
were not ready for use until from three to six days after 



VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. 



107 



Linnaeus. It is, however, a productive kind, and the 
stalks are large, and of good appearance. 

Monarch. — A Boston seedsman introduced a Scotch 
importation of rhubarb about fifteen years ago under 




Hill of St. Martin's. 

the name of Monarcli. For several years it was awarded 
first prize at the exhibitions of the Mass. Horticultural 
Society, as the largest and finest variety. On one occasion 
the twelve stalks shown weighed 28 pounds, leaves off. 




Monarch Rhubabb. 



The writer has found this kind rather inferior in quality 
and the skin is rough. The average length of the stalks 
is about 15 inches, but they are of large size, many stalks 
weighing more than one pound each. Color is fairly 



108 THE Ni:W RHUBARB (^ULTURE. 

bright. It considerably roseinbles Mammoth Red or 
StottV Maiiniiotli, and matures at about the same time, 
but is a less abundant yielder. 

Tbeiv ai'e numerous varieties of rhubarb outside 
those mentioned. fSome of them reach extreme size, but 
the large kinds are mostly inferior in quality and are 
later than the medium size kinds. Tliere is an orna- 
mental variety, a native of tlie Himalaya mountains, that 
is of some interest from its decorative value. The leaves 
are large and glossy, a vivid green, the stems are distinct 
red, while the flower stems are of a bright golden yellow, 
and so prominent as to be far more showy than the 
greenish pink edged flowers. The stalks liave the quali- 
ties of other varieties of r]iul)arl), l)ut tliis kind is not 
adapted for commercial uses. 

Bange of Varieties. — On the Pacific coast and in 
Canada the same varieties have been found to succeed 
as in the central and eastern United States. At the 
Ontario station seven varieties were tested in rows six 
feet apart, plants four feet apart in the rows. They were 
Egyptian Queen, Carleton Club, Linna?us, Paragon, 
Stott's Mammoth, St. Martin, and Victoria. The verdict 
was that Linnaeus is one of the best for market or home 
use. Paragon was later than Linnaeus and not so good 
quality and suffered from sunburn. St. Martin was large 
but poor quality. Carleton Club was the largest of all, 
and of quite good quality. Stott-s l\[ammoth is also 
large but stalks are shorter. One leaf of this kind 
measured 31 x 38 inches. It is late but the quality is 
the best. Egyptian Queen was a very fine flavor, medium 
size, and considered good for home use or market. 

Northern Limits. — This hardy vegetable has been 
tested as far north as the northwest territory of Canada 
where it seems to thrive, enduring the winter cold rather 



VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. 109 

better than the siumner drouth, however. The varieties 
most used are Tottle's Improved, whix3h is an English 
importation, and the old standard Victoria and Straw- 
berry. The plant has also been successfully grown in 
northwest and central Alaska where very few of the 
vegetables Avill survive the climate. In the Northwest 
Territory, Victoria and Linnseus were fit for use May 31, 
although not as large as Carleton CMul) or Stott's Mam- 
moth, they were of finer flavor. One stalk of the Carle- 
ton Club measured over nine inches in circumference. 
Stott's ^lammoth appeared not well adapted to the 
clinuite and many plants died. 

At the Dominion experiment farm in Manitoba in 
1893, 20 standard varieties were tested, some of them 
imported from England, others obtained from the United 
States. It was found that the standard kinds would 
thrive and ripen seed in abundance. The earliest kind 
reported was Manitoba Seedling Xo. 1, which was ob- 
tained by planting the seed of the Victoria. This kind 
is ready for use May 26. 

Another interesting test of earliness and yield was 
made at the Manitoba experiment station. It is how- 
ever, unfortunate that the seedlings were not tested 
along with some of the standard kinds. The stalks of 
the plants, set out the preceding year, were pulled every 
10 days and weighed; below will be found the returns 
per piant, etc. As the plants were set 4x4 feet the 
rate of returns per acre were in some instances very 
large. Following are the tabulated results : — 

Variety. Yield per plant. 

Seedling of Ready for nse. lbs. oz. Quality. 

Victoria, May 2('), 21 02 Clioice, tender. 

Myatt's Linn;ws, May 28, 19 13 Good 

Jolinston St. Martin June 1, 00 Green, hard, poor. 

Stott's Mammoth, , June 10, 5 11 Fair quality. 

Tottle's Improved, June 1, 18 13 Good, tender. 



110 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

Promising new seedlings. — Seedlings often vary con- 
siderably from the parent stock, and many growers 
who have raised their stock from seed have obtained 
variations which are worthy careful testing at the ex- 
periment stations. For instance, Prof. Maynard of 
the Massachusetts station is trying a new seedling of 
the Linnaeus, which is of a peculiarly bright pink or 
red, and which would present a very attractive appear- 
ance in the early market. Manitoba experiment station 
tried a number of seedlings of the Victoria, and dis- 
covered one that was ready for use May 26, or several 
days earlier than any of 20 standard kinds tested. It was 
also a heavy cropper, producing 20 pounds two ounces 
per plant. The flavor was good and the stalk tender. 
These instances show the great possibilities in the im- 
provement of the plant. The originator of a mammoth, 
high colored variety which should have the earliness and 
fine quality of the Linnaeus, would no doubt find a 
profitable sale for his discovery. 

Work of the Experiment Stations. — Comparatively 
little has been done with the rhubarb crop at the ex- 
periment stations. Most stations have rested content 
after having tested the adaptability of the plant to the 
soil and climate, and after comparing the different 
varieties. Ehode Island has conducted valuable experi- 
ments in dark forcing, as described elsewhere in this 
volume, and in bulletin 55 of the station. Professor 
F. W. Card who carried on these tests, writes : — 

"Tests, the past winter, since the publication of that 
bulletin, show that in a cool cellar the plants are too 
slow in coming into growth to give satisfactory results, 
although the product is excellent, when obtained. Any 
cellar in which a furnace is kept running during the 
winter will give good results or the temperature may 



VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. Ill 

be maintained by means of a lamp or oil stove, and 
partitioning off the place where the plants are growing 
with canvas or other material. The forced product 
grown in this way is very attractive, the color of the 
stalks being particularly bright and beautiful." 

New Jersey station has tried LinniTeus for winter 
forcing, but thinks A^ictoria would have succeeded better, 
and recommends use of two-year-old plants in place of 
one-year-olds, for forcing. Missouri station reports fair 
success with winter rhubarb under greenhouse benches, 
and is trying a new method of outdoor, steam forcing, 
as described in Chapter T. The stations of Ontario, the 
Dakotas, Alaska, Northwest Territory, and Manitoba 
have done useful work in testing hardiness and adapta- 
bility of old and new varieties. The results, also the 
Massachusetts experiments with rhubarb varieties, are 
included in the descriptions of varieties in the preceding 
part of this chapter. 

Several of the southern experiment stations have 
tried the crop, but with poor success in the extreme south, 
where the long summer drouth appears to kill out the 
plants in a year or two, unless located at a high altitude 
where the summers are cooler, or unless cultivated under 
irrigation. Maryland is the most southern state where 
the crop is reported grown on a commercial scale to any 
great extent, but the success of the crop under irrigation 
in California, Idaho, Colorado, and other parts of the 
arid section, would indicate that rhul)arb will thrive 
luxuriantly wherever there is frost in winter and an 
abundant supply of water during the greater part of the 
growing season. 

At Texas experiment station, the rhubarl) plants died 
out in the drouth of August, whenever tested. But 
the experimenters report a good growth of the plant in 



112 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

spring and early summer, and they suggest that rhubarb 
might pay if grown as an annual crop, fresh roots being 
set every year. 

In Louisiana, the crop is grown in gardens only, by 
those who have obtained roots from the iSTorth. At- 
tempts have been made to grow the plant at the state 
experiment station, but without continued success. Rhu- 
barb is not on sale in the markets, and no demand for 
the ■ product has been created, the people being un- 
familiar with its use. The long, hot summer of the 
Gulf coast region seems to prevent proper root develop- 
ment, and the only benefit from the plant is from roots 
obtained from the North in spring, and used only one 
year. In the South, rhubarl) may be set in the late 
fall with success; transplanting any time before Christ- 
mas. In fact the fall transplanting is likely to be fully 
as successful as when the operation is performed in 
spring, unless the locality is so far south that the roots 
fail to get the bracing effect of a freeze in winter. 

Rhubarb cannot be successfully grown in North 
Carolina except in the cool soil of the high mountain 
valleys. Horticulturist W. F. Massey of the state ex- 
periment station has tried it repeatedly at Raleigh, both 
with purchased roots and seedlings, and in the dry soil 
there it rarely survives the first summer. In low moist 
bottom land some partial success may be had, but it is 
apparently not a plant adapted to commercial culture 
there. With strong roots brought from the North, Prof. 
Massey could easily force the stalks in winter under 
greenhouse benches, in cellars or in barrels in tlie open 
ground packed around witli heating manure, but the 
first winter would end tlie usefulness of the roots. He 
has now a piece of low, black soil in which he proposes 
to make another experiment with the plant, but has 



VARIETIES AND STATION TESTS. 113 

never yet succeeded in growing a crop of rhubarb or of 
gooseberries or currants there, though all succeed in the 
western part of the state in the valleys and table lands 
elevated from 2,000 to 4,000 feet above the sea. 

The elevated regions of Arkansas are likewise favor- 
able to successful culture of rhubarb, although the plant 
has received no special attention, and there are as yet 
no large growers. Horticulturist Walker of the Arkan- 
sas state experiment station writes : — 

"We have growing, a few plants of Linnaeus rhubarb 
at the station in Fayetteville, and I am convinced that 
with attention to cultivation in the heat of summer, and 
the selection, so far as possible, of the cooler locations, 
and b}^ thorough manuring, the plant can be grown suc- 
cessfully even on our more sandy soils. In many re- 
spects its requirements are like those of celery. The 
difficulty usually is with this, in common with other 
crops, that the grower ordinarily does not give the plant 
the proper care. In suitable soils and locations in this 
part of the state there is little difficulty even with in- 
different care, but in soils less perfectly suited to it, 
good and intelligent care is the price of success. All 
this northwest portion of the state is elevated. Just 
how well the plant will do in the lower and warmer parts 
of the state remains to be determined." 

One-half acre of Linnaeus rhubarb is grown by R. C. 
McCullom near Fayetteville, and he seems to make it 
thrive as well as in the north. He declares he finds 
it about the most profitable of all his crops. It is planted 
in rows al)out four feet apart, hy two and one half or 
three feet in the row. The location is on the top of a 
mountain at an elevation of some 1,200 feet or more. 
The formation is limestone. The soil is a rich clay 
loam, very similar to the soil in the blue grass lands of 



114 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

Kentucky. His principal cutting is in the spring. The 
plant makes a splendid fall growth and would furnish 
a crop at this season if the market could use it. The 
soil is what is known as "Pawpaw'' land. 

Much of the soil of the district is a sandy loam, and 
often nearly sand. In such soil, the plant is naturally 
not so much at home as in the cooler loam. But even 
here, it could no doubt be grown with some care. An- 
other successful grower in the same locality is Jacob 
Schlafley. From the plant he makes a wine which those 
who have tasted it pronounce a fine drink. He has on 
account of liis rhubarb wine some local fame. 



CHAPTER IV. 

HINTS AND HELPS. 

For Early Marhet. — The secret of the earliest out- 
door rhubarh, which always brings a good price, con- 
sists in an early variety grown on early land with a 
protected, sunny slope. High manuring must not l)e 
omitted, for the rankest growing plants are also the 
earliest. Good cultivation is the remaining essential 
to earliness. The bulk of the crop will of course depend 
largely upon the water supply, and irrigation will pay, 
-if practicable. In starting the plantation, set only plants 
with strong, vigorous looking roots. Accept only those 
which have grown rapidly under high culture, and do 
not be swindled with stunted roots dug out of grass land. 

The ground should be plowed deeply, since the roots 
go down three or four feet. In regard to manuring there 
is no danger of getting too much. Rhubarb is the rank- 
est of rank feeders, and manure may be applied in any 
quantity directly to the hill when setting the crowns. 
10 or 12 cords to the acre is none too much. The ma- 
jority of growers make a mistake right here in not feed- 
ing the plant liberally enough. Set the plants either 
4 X 4 or 3 X 5 feet. When set 4x4 the hills can l)e 
cultivated both ways, l)ut the i)lant itself gives so much 
shade that most growers cultivate only one way and the 
weeds give little trouble. No hand hoeing is needed. 
The main difficulty is in getting the rhubarb rightly 
started. 



116 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 



The after care is very simple. After the picking 
season run a cultivator often enough to keep the weeds 
down. Three or four times will usually be enough. The 
great point is to apply plenty of manure. Spread on 10 
or 12 cords to the acre just before the last cultivating, 
and let the cultivator work it into the soil. The follow- 
ing spring cultivate again. If any artificial fertilizer is 
wanted the only thing worth while is nitrate of soda. 










Packing Shed for rhubarb. 

Growers not prepared to make the land as rich as pos- 
sible, had better let rhubarb alone. In the spring, culti- 
vate once before picking time. 

Gathering the crop is a fine art. Pick only the stalks 
that have nearly attained their growth. These are most- 
ly on the outside of the hill and can be selected by the 
smoothness and dull color of the leaf, and the mature 
appearance of the stalk. The growing stalks look red 



HINTS AND HELPS. 



117 



and vigorous and the leaves are small and rumpled. 
These latter should he left to grow. The cutter should 
keep watch for blossom stems and pull tliem out or cut 
them off near the ground as soon as seen. Not a seed 
should be allowed to form, during the entire season. In 
gathering the stalks take them away with a straight, 
quick pull, whip off the leaf and scrape the root end, and 
leave the stalks in small heaps, all pointed in one direc- 
tion ready for the man who comes after to gather into 
baskets or boxes, or into the cart. The leaves should be 
spread over the weeds near the plants. Rhubarb leaves 
will help smother all weeds and grass. 

PacJdng and Shipping. — A good packing house is a 

great convenience. It should be put up with especial 

reference to the rhubarb crop, but will be found quite 

suitable for other vegetables, also. A satisfactory build - 

" ing used by a Wisconsin specialist is illustrated herewith, 



3' 

i 


6' 


f/irttny 


Ooof- 


3' rxiif/e. 


3' 


Toi?/e 


3' y 


9 

* II li 


J6' 

iiiiiiiiiii" III 





Interior Plan of Packing Shed. 

• 

together with interior plan. The floor dimensions are 
18 X 36 feet. It is lightly built and the sides covered 
with building paper. There is a door at each end and 
a large sliding door at one side for convenience in load- 
ing. The two tables are each three feet high, three feet 



118 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

wide and 13 feet, six inches loni^-, leaving tliree feet 
passageways around and between the tables, and spaces 
six feet and nine feet, respectively on each side. Cur- 
tains should shade the windows enough to keep out part 
of the light. A stove for kee[)ing a fire in cold spring 
weather is desirable, and a well and pump or other 
source of water supply is a great convenience for wash- 
ing the vegetables. Shelves over the tables are handy 
for tools and twine. 

The rhubarb is brought in and piled in the nine foot 
space against the wall. The root ends are scraped and 
it is transferred to the table, where one packer sizes the 
bunches, another ties them and a third cuts the leaves. 
It is then })iled on the other side of the tables until 
loaded for market. To avoid heating, it should not be 
shipped in too large packages. 

Insects and Blights. — The rhubarb grower is fortu- 
nate in being obliged to contend with only one insect 
pest of any consequence. During the spring and early 
summer, he is likely to notice some stalks with a gummy 
substance about a puncture near the leaf, although it 
sometimes appears quite close to the root. The gummy 
substance is partially dried sap which leaks out from 
the puncture produced by the work of the rhubarb 
curculio shown in the illustration: a is the grub worm 
which does the actual damage. The grubs feed upon 
the root as well as the stalk : h shows the pupa form and 
c the full developed curculio which hatches from the 
pupa. The grubs are about three-quarters of an inch 
long, white in color with a brown head. The pupa is 
whitish and about half an inch long. The grown beetles 
are brownish and covered with yellowish dust. The 
pictures are somewhat magnified and the exact size is 
shown by the accompanying lines. Eggs are laid during 



HINTS AND HELPS. 



119 



the spring and summer in the young flower stalk or 
near the crown of the ])hint. They hatch in a few days, 
and the grub goes lo woi'k ;it once on the root or stem, 




The RiiuiJARiJ CuiicrLio. 

growing rapidly and developing into beetles from August 
to October according to the time of hatching. The in- 
sect seems to prefer laying its eggs upon the flower 
stalks of the yellow dock, and if the dock ])lants in the 
neighborhood are destroyed and the rhubarl) not allowed 
to develop its flower stalk the number of eggs which 
hatch will be very greatly reduced. The only other 
remedy practiced is collecting and destroying the beetles 
whenever noticed. If the dock jdants are quite thorough- 
ly disposed of, tlie insects will not do very serious dam- 
age. An illustration shows the appearance of a section 
of stalk which has been punctured and gnawed by the 
curculio gruh making it worthless for market purposes. 



120 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 



Late in the summer, a blight or "spot" disease attacks 
the leaves, causing- brown, blistered patches to appear on 
the foliage. Finally the leaves are perforated with holes, 
as the substance wastes away. This blight seems unable 
to do any harm when the plant is in full vigor, but 
makes its attack as soon as the growth becomes feeble. 
Sickly hills, or those on dry ground are first affected. 




Stalk Injured by Curoulio. 



Sometimes the line of attack will show quite plainly in 
a field, where the progress of the spotting is stopped by 
the resisting power of plants on a strip of moister soil. 
Spraying with bordeaux or carbonate of copper mixture 
would probably check or prevent the spotting and thus 
somewhat prolong the growing season. But growers 
assume that the blight comes too late to do much harm 
to the next year's crop, and spraying is not attempted. 



HINTS AND HELPS. 121 

In several of the large rhubarb fields of Long Island, 
another form of blight or similar disease has been 
noticed, and is tlie canse of some nneasiness in that lo- 
cality. Tliis blight causes a yellow appearance of the 
leaves, and a somewhat stunted growth. It appears much 
earlier in the season than the ordinary blight which 
attends the dying down of the foliage in September. 
It appears mostly on hills which have been set three 
years or more, and the effect is to seriously lessen the 
vigor and productiveness. One of the New York ex- 
periment stations is now engaged in a study of this 
disease. 

Culture of Medicinal Rhuliarh. — Various attempts 
have been made to raise the medicinal rhubarb in the 
United States, and there is every reason to suppose the 




Plant of the Medicinal Rhubarb. 

plant will thrive and yield a first quality product, when 
grown in a mild climate. It does not seem to succeed 
too far north. When on trial at the Massachusetts ex- 
periment station it did not appear to thrive or to give 
any promise of profitable growth and the plants were re- 
moved. 



122 thp: new rhubarb culture. 

The medicinal .species is grown in the same way as 
the varieties cultivated for stalks.' In field culture, a 
light plow furi-ow should Ix^ nuide on each side of the 
rows, thus covering the crown buds of the plants with 
a layer of soil, which will form a ridge to throw off the 
water and afford winter protection. In spring, this 
ridge will be smoothed down with a light harrow. The 
roots will 1)e large enough for removal at the end of 
four years' growth, although it is claimed that a furtliei* 
growth of one or two years increases their medicinal 
value. The drug is often prescribed as a cathartic. The 
following account of the medicinal variety and its cul- 
tivation is by Mr. William Saunders, late superintendent 
of gardens and grounds at the U. S. department of 
agriculture : — 

It is now generally admitted that the true source of 
the best rhubarb of commerce is Rheum officinale. This 
species is a native of Thibet. It is a plant of robust 
growth, often reaching five to six feet in height, and 
produces large heavy masses of flowers. The leaves are 
sometimes five feet long. The ordinary species of rhu- 
barb are herbaceous perennials, with a thick rootstock 
and deciduous leaves. In Rheum officinale, after the 
third or fourth year from seed, the rootstock gradually 
decays and a stem is formed above the ground ; the plant 
then derives its nourishment from small roots, which 
cannot be employed in medicine. These stems have thick 
branches, often six to eight inches in diameter. The 
portion used in medicine is therefore the stem, and not 
the rhizome or root. 

Seeing that the sources of rhubarb are so numerous, 
it may well be expected that its commercial distinctions 
and medicinal values are equally varied. The (|uality of 
the article will be influenced by its botanical origin, 
the climate and soil in which it was grown, the age of 
the root, the season when gathered, the method of collec- 
tion, the process of dr3'ing, and its final preparation for 



HINTS AND HELPS. i2;i 

market. The portion of the phiiit whicli constitutes the 
drug will also intluence its value. The arlicrle furnished 
by the stem, or a part very close to the stem, will differ 
from one obtained trom the root. (Jood rhubarb has a 
bitter, astringent, and somewhat aromatic taste, and 
feels gritty to the teeth, owing to the abundance of small 
crystals of oxalate of lime which are contained in it. It 
has a very delicate odor, and is covered with a fine yellow 
powder, and the pieces when l)roken present a mottled 
red and yellow color, owing to the passage of a number 
of wavy carmine-colored streaks through the yellowish- 
white matrix. Here and there are small spots of a dark- 
er color. 

It is considered that very much of the appearance, 
and supposed difference in quality, of the commercial 
rhubarb is wholly owing to the time of lifting the root 
and the care given to its preparation for market. The 
Chinese dig up the roots early in spring, just before 
the leaves appear. After lifting, the roots are divested 
of all small fibers, and the soil and other impurities re- 
moved by washing. They are then allowed to dry a day 
or two in the sun, then cut in slices, and after exposure 
to the sun for four or five days longer, during which 
time they must be turned over several times daily to 
prevent molding, a hole is bored in each slice, which is 
then strung on a thread until sufficiently dry. They are 
put through a finishing process by being placed in a 
close cylinder, where they are subjected to abrasion by 
the rapid revolution of the vessel. This smooths their 
surfaces, liberating at the same time a fine dust or 
powder, which envelops each piece with a fine bloom, 
like that \\]wn the surface of a ripe plum. A considera- 
ble quantity of rhubarb root is imported into this 
country for medicinal purposes. This might profitably 
be grown here, provided that species of plants which 
yield the best article could be procured for that purpose. 
Large quantities are grown in England. The English 
rhubarb is of a light spongy texture ; its taste is astrin- 
gent and mucilaginous, but destitute of the aromatic 
and gritty qualities possessed by the more highly esteem- 



124 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

ed kinds. It is probable that the root as grown in the 
warmer climates of tins country would be equal to the 
best article of the kind now in commerce. The slow 
sun-drying ])rocess adoptcnl in other countries might here 
be completed iu a few hours in a drying apparatus by 
artificial heat. This would insure against danger from 
moldiness and secure good color and flavor with more 
certainty than when the drying process is wholly depend- 
ent upon the direct heat of the sun. 

Rhubarh for Home Use. — The culture of rhubarb, 
or pie plant, for home use, is too much neglected in the 
average country districts. Almost every family would 
use considerable of the vegetable in early spring if an 
ample supply were at hand. The plant will stand a 
great deal of neglect, being a relative of the yellow dock, 
and almost as hard to kill. Of course in growing for 
market there is no profit unless the plant is given the 
best of care and fertilization, but enough could be pro- 
duced for home use by almost any method. A few roots 
set out the south side of a garden wall will start early, 
and furnish abundance of material for making pies, 
dumplings, sauces, etc., in the spring and early summer. 
This supply is especially welcome after a winter in which 
apples have been scarce. Families who move on to a 
new farm will find that the quickest way to produce a 
supply of material for pies, sauces etc., is to set out 
rhubarb plants. If these are obtained by dividing old 
hills they will begin growing at once, and can be pulled 
a little the first season. The vegetable is one of the 
easiest to preserve by canning, preserve in glass jars 
being nearly as fine flavored as the fresh gathered article. 
It is also good to preserve by drying, cutting it in 
short pieces and drying in the same manner as sliced 
apples, or running them through an evaporator. The 
stalks may be cooked before drying if preferred. When 



HINTS AND HELPS. 125 

ready for use soak and use the same as dried apples, or 
mixed with dried apples for sauces and pies. A dozen 
hills will supply an average family. Linnaeus is the 
best kind for home use. 

For Seed Raising, select the earliest, highest colored 
and most luxuriant plants. Allow but few seed stalks 
to mature from each hill. When the seed becomes dry 
and brown, bring the stalks indoors and strip off the 
seed, spreading it out thin in a dry room away from rats 
and mice. When thoroughly dry, store in tin boxes until 
wanted. It should be all used the first or second season, 
and will usually come up very poorly if kept until the 
third spring. Seed is not produced in abundance until 
the plants are three years old. Production of seed always 
lessens the crop of the following year. Do not allow 
the seed to become ripened and to scatter about the 
farm, as the young plants are almost as hard to kill as 
their relative, the yellow dock. One pound will sow 
about six average hotbed frames and should yield at 
least 1,000 plants. 

Rhubarb seed is sometimes sown in the fall and will 
start a little earlier in the spring by that method, but 
will not come up so evenly. In thinning, some allowance 
may be made for the variety grown. The Linnaeus will 
do very well two feet apart in the rows, the rows being 
four feet apart. The Victoria and other large kinds do 
better and are also more easily cultivated four feet apart 
each way, while the Mammoth and other giant kinds 
may be grown to advantage 4x5 feet. 

The Seed Bed should be on moist loamy soil, well 
drained but not suffering greatly from drouth. It 
cannot be made too ricli, aud nothing is better than 
plenty of well rotted stable manure supplemented with 
a sprinkling of nitrate of soda. The drills for seeds 



126 



THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 



should be about one inch deep. They may be covered 
with a hoe, and should be well pressed down with the 
foot. The cultivation of the young plants consists mere- 
ly of keeping the soil about them light and free from 
grass and weeds. In a small patch this work can be done 




Seedling and Root Cutting. 



with a hoe and rake, and a little hand weeding is neces- 
sary before the plants get large enough to shade the 
rows. Directions for propagation from roots and from 
seed, sown either under glass or in the open ground, 
are given in Part I. There is but little essential diifer- 
ence between a well grown seedling root and a well 
selected cutting from an overgrown hill. But the root 
clumps sometimes sold for transplanting, resemble a mis- 
shapen club more than a plant, and will make slow 
growth. Thrifty, branching roots are best. 

TliG Food Value of rhubarb seems to consist almost 
entirely in its tonic properties obtained from the minci-al 
matters which give it its acid quality. The food analy- 



HINTS AND HELPS. 127 

sis made at Storrs experiment station, 1891, shows that 
the stems contain 92.7 per cent of water, leaving only 
7.3 for the nutritive and flavoring constituents. There 
is only eight-tenths of one per cent protein, 1.2 per cent 
fat, 4.1 per cent glucose and nine-tenths of one per 
cent mineral matter. It is considered as a food no more 
nutritive than an equal weight of turnips, but its value 
as a strong tonic and appetizer is well known and de- 
pends on the stimulating and corrective qualities of the 
oxalic acid which the plant contains. 

Fertilizing Constituents of Ilhuharh. — Rhubarb con- 
tains considerable nitrogen and phosphoric acid, which 
explains the good results of using nitrate of soda and 
wood ashes as fertilizers. The lime in the ashes also 
sometimes produces important effects by sweetening the 
soil. Analyses of the root as ])ublished by the U. S. de- 
■partment of agriculture show a composition of 91.67 per 
cent moisture. There is 00.55, or about one-half of one 
per cent of nitrogen and practically the same amount of 
potash (00.53), while of phosphoric acid there is only 
00.06 per cent. The stems and leaves are more watery 
than the roots, with 92.7 per cent moisture. They also 
hold 00.13 per cent nitrogen, 00.02 per cent phosphoric 
acid, and 00.36 per cent potash. 

Irrigation has been tried with good success at Iowa 
station, the plants being set 4x3 feet in rich soil, and 
the water applied to the surface. The result Avas a 
rapid and very crisp growth. Varieties tested were 
Linnaeus and Victoria. Montana experiment station has 
also succeeded witli rluibarb under irrigation, ^^the yield 
being large and tlie quality all tliat was to be desired." 
Rhubarb is grown successfully under irrigation at Colo- 
rado experiment station. 

Field Jottings. — Too much crowding in the field 



128 THE NEW RHUBARB CULTURE. 

is perhaps the most common and most serious mistake. 
4x4 feet is plenty close enough. 

No great profits without lavish manuring. Ten cords 
of the average manure is about what the large growers 
expect to use every year on good land : 25 to 50 big loads 
will be somewhere near right. Some find it pays them 
to use more. Nobody should start a large field of this 
hungry vegetable, who is not able and willing to get 
as much manure as it needs. 

For handling roots use a long handle spade, a round- 
cornered shovel and a wide, flat-pointed crowbar. This 
outfit will make it easy to dig roots for new plantings. 

Large growers make considerable money selling roots 
for planting, at $7 to $15 per 100. Eoots are shipped 
in barrels or boxes, packed in moss or cut straw. 

The very earliest crops are on light soils fertilized 
abundantly with manure and nitrate of soda and well 
soaked in a dry time with artificial water supply. 

Rhubarb is such a rank feeder that nothing comes 
amiss. Small animals which are found dead on the 
farm are best disposed of by burying near the rhubarb 
hills. No injury results to the plants, and if so treated 
they produce enormous stalks. 

Cultivation is very easy because the great leaves 
shade the ground and choke out weeds, and the same 
leaves after cutting, if spread along the roots, also assist 
in keeping down the weeds, so that tlie main thing for 
cultivation is to keep the ground fairly mellow, and 
work in whatever manure is applied. 

The plants are hard to kill and stand most any kind 
of ill treatment when transplanting, but it is best to 
handle them carefully, and set during a wet time in 
order not to lose any of tlie season's growth. 

The great secret of success in raising asparagus and 



HINTS AND HELPS. 129 

rhubarb is high manuring. Both phmts are gross feed- 
ers. They produce so many stalks and leaves and they 
grow so rapidly that they require a liberal application 
of manure every year. Quickness of growth is con- 
ducive to the quality and tenderness in any edible vege- 
table, and this cannot be obtained in a poor soil. 

Rhubarb needs a deep and very fertile soil, and it 
is useless to expect to grow it in a thin, dry soil, unless 
under irrigation. Xot that it needs wet ground by any 
means, but a soil retentive of moisture and rather in- 
clined to clay; though good rhubarb can be grown in 
quite a sandy soil if it be well manured. Xo amount of 
fertilizer we have ever tried will take the place of stable 
manure with this plant. The organic matter in the 
manure making the soil more retentive of moisture, 
. makes it indispensable when large and succulent stalks 
are desired. 

The stalks of rhubarb are excellent substitutes for 
fruit, and the culture of this plant may therefore be 
commended to farmers who have taken up new places. 
By sowing rhubarb seed they can supply themselves with 
a substitute for fruit several years before they can bring 
trees, vines, and bushes into bearing. 

A grower whose small patch produces rhubarb of 
enormous size, explains his success from his practice 
of throwing soapsuds over the ground on washing days. 
He has sold '1^30 worth from the patch of two and one- 
half rods in a single season. Manure from the hogpen is 
also applied and would no doul)t of itself produce a good 
yield. 

Profits from the outdoor crop are difficult to estimate 
because so much depends upon earliness. All the cream 
of the product comes from the early part of the crop, 
Rhubarb at five to 10 cents per pound is one of the 



130 THE NEW RHUBARB C^UJ/rURE. 

best of mone}^ crops. When the quotations drop to lialf 
a cent per pound, it is hardly worth while to go to the 
expense of gathering it and shipping. The hills are 
weakened by gathering too late in the season, and many 
growers will not ship when the price gets below one 
cent per pound. Receipts vary from $100 to $500 per 
acre and the difference is mainly in the soil and ferti- 
lization, which are the factors affecting earliness. 



APR 13 1901 



